dossier

Camino de Santiago Walk

WHERE YOU STAY

Posada Regia*** Leon, Day 1

The Posada Regia is perfectly located in the centre of Leon, just off the main (largely pedestrian) street and around a five minute walk from the impressive central cathedral. The hotel has two buildings on adjacent streets. The main building is where the restaurant and bars are located. Once inside you enter the world of ‘old Leon’ as even part of the original Roman city wall has been incorporated into the structure of the new building. The atmosphere is rustic with lots of timber and tile floors, and this building is next to a lively square where it is pleasant to sit out for drinks of an evening. The second building (where Breakaway client rooms are located) is 20m down a quieter street. Bedrooms are attractive with bold colours and smart new bathrooms.

Further details on the hotel website.

DAY BY DAY

Day 1   Arrival in Leon

Arrive and check into your historic hotel in the heart of Leon.

Day 2   Leon to Molinaseca  16km/10mi/4hr or 8km/5mi/2hr

After a 1hr transfer to Cruz de Ferro, a remote hilltop chapel high in the smoky Montes de Leon, the Camino winds downhill through fragrant pines where once the Knights Templar protected pilgrims from bandit attack. An easy path lined with wild chestnuts, cherries, peppers and fennel leads to riverside Molinaseca,
where you’ll meet your host Juan Belda, who has walked the entire Camino three times!

Posada de Muriel AAA Molinaseca, Day 2

Juan Belda is one of the larger than life characters in this little riverside village of Molinaseca. A warm welcome awaits to his charming little hotel of 8 rooms that faces a small square in the village right on the Camino de Santiago. Juan has walked the route all the way from France three times, taking one of his children with him each time in order to get to know them better! The hotel itself is charming and although quite modern in construction, feels homely and rather countrified inside, with each of the rooms named for a Templar Knight. Although Juan speaks basic English he prefers Spanish so a phrasebook will come in handy. One of the many towns along the Camino, Molinaseca is a pretty backwater with several hotels and restaurants catering primarily to pilgrims. The Camino cuts right through the heart of the village and the hotel is on your left as you approach.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 3   Ambasmestas to O’Cebreiro  14km/8mi/4.5hr

After a short transfer (30 mins), you ascend the Rio Valcarce valley, climbing into moody oak woods strung with lichen and strewn with early purple orchid.  O’Cebreiro is an C11 village in the heart of the Cordillera Cantabrica – walk to the viewpoint above the village for a perfect sunset and views over 4 ranges of hills, then return along the narrow cobbled streets past traditional thatched houses known as palazos.

Hotel O’Cebreiro AAA O’Cebreiro, Day 3

The Valena family have run much of the accommodation in O’Cebreiro for generations, and the village certainly looks like time has stood still. With amazing views in all directions, this tiny place is one of the most charming on the Camino. There are rooms in three different buildings, each just 20m apart and made from the heavy, grey stone typical to this area. One building is an C11 monastery and is actually connected to the little church next door so the monks could walk directly between their rooms and their pews! Rooms are light and more spacious that you would suspect in such small 2 story buildings. The main restaurant is next to the café and bar, often filled with characters from the village. English is in short supply but there are so many nationalities passing though here you will always find someone to help!

Day 4   Triacastela to Sarria  18km/11mi/5hr

Farmers wield razor sharp scythes in tiny fields outside Triacastela, as the Camino meanders between heather clad villages overlooking the Monastery of Samos – you can even hear the bells! On reaching Sarria - the antiques capital of Galicia – you’ll be whisked to Javier and Raquel’s luxurious country rectory,
(10 mins), complete with chapel and al fresco dining patio.

Rectoral de Goian AAAA Sarria, Day 4

A grand home, often in a picturesque location built of attractive old stone. Such is the case with The Rectoral de Goian – a gorgeous property set in isolated countryside in landscaped gardens that are just too perfect. Javier will collect you from the Hotel Roma café opposite the station in Sarria and bring you the 8km to the hotel, and will also drop you off in the morning in the same place to continue the walk. The Rectoral building is horseshoe shaped – it has an open patio and balconies facing the garden so it is ideal for eating al fresco in the evening. There is even a tiny chapel in the garden that is still used!  Bedrooms are gorgeous with stone walls, beams, wooden floors and modern bathrooms, all with views on to the patio or the garden. Raquel and Javier don’t speak English, so a phrase book will come in handy here too.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 5    Sarria to Portomarin  21km/13mi/5hr

A Roman bridge leads out of Sarria up the Celerio Valley, where you’ll traverse the hamlets of the southern flank of the Sierra del Paramo. Descend into Portomarin - the original village was drowned by the Belesar Reservoir. This evening, meet Mario’s horses and enjoy wine from his vines, before a waterside stroll after dinner .

Casa Rural Sta Maria AA Portomarin, Day 5

Casa Rural Santa Maria is run by Mario – a popular and welcoming host in Portomarin. The extensive area of land that he owns is on the shore looking down the lake and is extremely attractive. He has his own vines in front of the main stone two storey building from which he makes the wine you receive at dinner, and he keeps horses in the meadow adjacent to the timber building that houses the bedrooms. Bedrooms are all wooden with modern bathrooms and all share a communal sitting room with a TV and panoramic windows with views of the lake.

Adjacent to the restaurant there is also an orchard for pitching tents which is why so many people walking the Camino choose this as a place to stay, giving it a lively and friendly atmosphere.

Day 6   Portomarin to Lestedo  20km/12mi/4.5hr

Drop into Portomarin’s church (moved stone by stone from the valley floor to avoid being drowned), then follow the Torres stream passing between cornfields lined with ox-eye daisies. Stamp your pilgrim passport in country churches dedicated to the Order of St James before arriving at your delightful rural farmhouse this evening.

Rectoral de Lestedo AAAA Lestedo, Day 6

Set deep in the countryside directly on the Camino, on a hillside with fabulous north facing views, this ancient light stone ruin has been restored by Susana and Cesar (a local vet). The sloping garden gives all the rooms pleasant country views, and the public spaces are very effectively designed to maximise natural light and make the most of the views. The 9 bedrooms are light and spacious with black and white photos on the walls, wooden floors and some striking designer touches that you might not expect in a building of this age.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 7   Lestedo to Melide 13km/8mi/3hr

Country lanes lead past fortified farmhouses into the hillside town of Palas del Rei (Palace of the King) as you enter the province of A Coruna. You’ll pass typical raised Galician granaries and chickens scamper across narrow streets as you enter vineyards, with views east to the Montes del Vacaloura.

Casa de Los Somoza AAA Melide, Day 7+8

In the tiniest village of just a few houses, Jesus Cardelle’s rustic country Turismo Rural is a popular stop on the Camino. The house was originally a farm, and has an old world charm about it with tiled floors and wooden beams throughout. The garden outside is always full of passing pilgrims having a drink in the sunshine, and playing his typical in house Galician skittle game. This is a simple village and a simple hotel, full of rustic charm. There is no English spoken here.

Day 8    Melide to Arzua/Melide  18km/11mi/5hr

It is a short stroll from O Coto into Melide – a thriving country town with tavernas brimming with locals enjoying Galician seafood in specialist pulperias (octopus restaurants!). Drop into the Romanesque church of Santa Maria to admire the frescoes, before lanes lined with bright yellow celandine and shady oaks bring you into the lively market town of Arzua. We pick you up here and take you back to Melide for a second night.

Day 9    Melide/Arzua to Rua  19km/12mi/5hr
Short (20 min) transfer back to Arzua’s colonnaded streets which lead you into open country where local farmers wear berets as they tend vines and build haystacks with pitch forks.  Your route rises and falls through river valleys crossing rushing streams. This evening you can marvel at Javier and Maria’s breathtaking converted water mill, where original machinery has been turned into spectacular period features!

O Muino de Pena AAAA Rua, Day 9

Just off the Camino (you will be picked up from Hotel O Pino which is on the Camino by Javier), can be found some of the loveliest and most unusual properties to stay in, and this is one of them. Hidden in the backwoods and valleys this ancient mill sits next to a rushing river and weir, instantly relaxing you with the sound of running water. The bedrooms are on the top floor as you enter (you enter on the second floor as it is built on a steep hill), and all are utterly charming with beams, stone walls and dark wooden furniture. Downstairs, much of the heart of the mill has been retained, with giant wheels and massive machinery blending perfectly with the bar and dining area and looking quite spectacular. The open riverside garden is perfect for a drink, and the entire place fells as if it is a mythical secret hideaway. Javier will drive you back to the Camino (10 minutes) in the morning.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 10    Rua to Santiago de Compostela  19km/12mi/5hr

Excitement mounts as you set off towards Monte do Gozo – the Mount of Joy – where pilgrims of old caught their first glimpse of the spires of Santiago. It is a bit busier these days! On reaching Santiago’s historic centre, congratulations are everywhere as a steady stream of pilgrims reach journey’s end below the cathedral’s spectacular Baroque facade. Drop into the Pilgrim Office to collect your certificate if you wish, before checking into our historic hotel near the old marketplace, still a riot of color!

Virxe da Cerca **** Santiago de Compostela, Day 10

Just on the edge of the historic centre in Santiago de Compostela, the Virxe da Cerca sits just below the old market – it is still used by the locals daily and is definitely worth wandering through. The hotel is a grand old building with 4 floors and period rooms that back on to an extensive garden at the back. The breakfast room overlooks the garden while the in house restaurant is on the ground floor in the depths of the building with solid stone walls and a cosy atmosphere. It is only a 5 minute walk into the heart of the old town so it is perfect for exploring, and feels like coming back to your very own stately home in the city.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 11   Return home

Enjoy Santiago and the cathedral before taking a taxi to the airport (pay locally approx 15 euro).