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Classic Lake Como Walk

CLASSIC LAKE COMO WALK | WHERE YOU STAY

Hotel Glavjc ***
Torno, Days 1+2+3

The Glavjc Hotel is set on a series of steep terraces in Torno, around a 10 minute walk uphill from the central harbour. It is the property of the Caminada family - (Angelo is front of house), and almost every room in the hotel commands a stunning and uninterrupted view of the lake below and mountains beyond. The top two floors are where the rooms are located - bedrooms are simple and frill free, with tile floors and white walls. The highlight of each room is the floor to ceiling patio doors that lead onto a private balcony. Public rooms are on the floor below - they are very spacious and might best be described as '70s retro' - definitely memorable - with panoramic windows running the length of the restaurant. Steps below the hotel lead down to an old mule track that leads into town.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 1 - Arrive in Torno

We meet you at Milan airport and transfer you to the Caminada family hotel in Torno (80 mins) for a welcome drink. Time to explore the C15 church before dinner in the panoramic lake view restaurant.

Day 2 - In Torno: Monte Piatto Walk 10km/6mi/5hr

A steady ascent through Torno's twisting alleys leads to a mule track offering increasingly lovely lake views as you follow it up past peach terraces, waterfalls and stone-carved tombs. A stepped trail up a shaded mossy valley finds you in Monte Piatto village, perched 450m above the water, with a breathtaking picnic spot by the church. Drink in the view before a steep descent under wild cherry trees leads down to Torno, then relax on your balcony at sunset, as faraway lights begin to twinkle around the lake.

Day 3 - In Torno: Como and Strada Regia Walk 8km/5mi/3.5hr

The ferry from Torno takes just 20 minutes to historic Como. Explore the old city and cathedral before a near vertical funicular ride up to Brunate 700m above the town - you can see all the way to Milan! An ancient royal trail, the 'Strada Regia' leads north, traversing hillsides of oak forest and tumbling streams. Flower-decked stone cottages bask in sunny clearings of olives and almonds, and you skirt giant granite boulder erratics left by retreating glaciers before descending to Torno again.

Day 4 - Torno to Bellagio 9km/5.5mi/5hr

After a transfer (1hr) up to 1000m on Monte San Primo, a path leads up the mountain to a 1400m high saddle and a phenomenal 270 degree vista, as La Grigne (2400m) soars above you. Descend via shady gullies dotted with orchids to Ghisallo village 750m below. The walk ends here at a local bar that clings to a sheer cliff-top by a great suntrap terrace. We transfer you (15 mins) to your waterfront hotel in Bellagio where you can select one of the local trattoria for dinner tonight.

Hotel Excelsior Splendide ***
Bellagio, Days 4+5

The Excelsior Splendide is a grand lakeside hotel on the waterfront in Bellagio. It faces the ferry dock and the Navigazione Kiosk where you purchase tickets for the boats, and is a 5 minute stroll along the water from Villa Melzi. The hotel is separated from the water by a narrow street - it has an elegant exterior and inside the public rooms are vast, with high ceilings, marble floors and period furniture. It isn't in the first flush of youth so has an atmosphere of faded grandeur that is quite appealing, and seems appropriate for Bellagio. Several floors of bedrooms are up a wide central staircase - the rooms and are more modern than the rest of the building suggests, and out the back are stepped gardens with a swimming pool that is opened for the summer months.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 5 - In Bellagio: Bellagio Circular Walk 10km/6mi/5hr

A little used trail from Bellagio's picturesque promenade leads up a series of stepped trails to the high hill villages of Brogno and Chevrio, where Alpine chalet-style farms with great views into Switzerland sell homemade cheese and honey to passersby. After descending, loop through market gardens via Pescallo's enticing waterfront restaurants - ideal for a post walk drink - then follow the maze of twisting alleys back into Bellagio.

Day 6 - Bellagio to Varenna 7km/4mi/3hr

After catching the ferry (10 mins) to Varenna and Laura Colombo's exquisite art deco hotel, join a pilgrimage route that zig-zags steeply up to Varenna Castle - an excellent lookout point. The path dips and rises through terraces of olives along the eastern shore to meet the lake in central Bellano, once famous for silk. Explore the 'orrido' - a savage gorge that cleaves the town in two, then take the train one stop back to Varenna. Enjoy the atmosphere in the lively central square before dinner.

Albergo Olivedo ***
Varenna, Days 6+7

Albergo Olivedo has been in the Colombo family for 60 years. Set immediately opposite the ferry dock in pretty Varenna, it has a welcoming outdoor restaurant on the water, while inside it is a treasure trove of art deco delights, from light fittings to door handles. Bedrooms are beautifully presented and feel more like a home than a hotel. The main building houses 14 bedrooms and there are 6 larger bedrooms in an annexe (Villa Toretta) just 30m away, each decorated with individual furniture and artwork. It is just a 5 minute walk along the waterfront to reach the heart of the town.

Further details on the hotel website.

Day 7 - In Varenna 10km/6mi/4.5hr

Take the ferry (40 minutes) to Lenno today - a historic pilgrim path hairpins uphill above the town, passing 15 chapels full of carved effigies of Christ to reach the UNESCO Santuario Soccorso. From here, a C12 mountain path leads up to the remote Abbey of San Benedetto, perched high above in the Perlana valley. Few people come here, and it is a tranquil picnic spot amid the pines. A steady downhill past isolated farms loops back into Lenno from where you sail to Varenna for dinner.

Day 8 - Depart

WALKING DETAILS

Walks are on mountain paths and lakeside tracks. All walks involve steep ascents and/or descents, and traverse steep hillsides. Walkers should be confident and relatively fit. Vertigo sufferers should not book this holiday. Walking boots are essential, walking poles are recommended.