dossier

Peruvian Highlights

Grade

This trip and its trek have been graded Moderate toChallenging, and should present few problems to those who are fit and active.The trek does, nevertheless, feature passes of 4,200m and 4,000m, and a fewlong ascents and descents. 6 or 7 hours trekking per day, approximately.

Climate

Peru is located entirely within the tropics, but the climatevaries significantly according to season and geography.

Coast: May to October, damp and misty but very little rain. Average day/nighttemperature in Lima 20°C (70°F)/ 13°C(56°F). December to March, warm and sunny.

Highlands: May to October, sunny days and chilly evenings. Best time forwalking in the mountains. Average daytime max/night-time min temperatures inPuno are approximately 18°C(66°F) /1°C(33°F), in Cusco 21°C (72°F)/3°C(36°F),and in Arequipa 26ºC(82°F) /7ºC(44°F).

Note that at the higher altitudes, temperatures can drop below freezingpre-dawn. Note also that the highland sun is very strong.

December to March, rainy season.

Included

Tour leader throughout the trip, all domestic flights, groundtransport and transfers while in Peru, all accommodation as per itinerary,breakfasts throughout the tour, fully-inclusive trek including all meals, localguide and porters to transport luggage.

Not Included

InternationalAirfare, insurance, vaccinations, meals other than those mentioned above (budget$10 per meal excluding drinks), any personal spending, airport taxes ($40 tocover international departure tax and domestic tax for 3 internal flights), anyoptional excursions.

Accommodation

Hotel accommodation in towns is usually in twin rooms withprivate facilities. On Taquile Island, we stay in basic family accommodation.When camping on trek, we use two-person mountain tents. Meals are prepared byour local cook.

Altitude

Shortness of breath is normal when first arriving ataltitude. Acclimatization time has been built into this itinerary. The highestpoint on the trek is 4,200 meters, but our highest camp is at 3,800m. At Punoand Taquile, we sleep at 3,830m.

Visas

Your passport should be valid for at least six months afteryour date of travel. Check for current visa requirements with the localPeruvian Consulate, Tel (202) 833-9860. All requirements are subject to changeand should be confirmed before departure.

Vaccinations

We recommend up to date diphtheria, polio and tetanus ortetanus booster. These three are effective for ten years.

Yellow fever if you are going to lowland jungle areas (not effectiveuntil ten days after inoculation; not recommended for pregnant women). This isalso effective for ten years.

Anti-malarial protection (if going on a jungle trip below 1,500 meters;not needed for high-altitude treks). Peru has chloroquine-resistant strains ofmalaria and it is important that you follow the prophylactic regime carefully. Travelersshould contact the Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta (tel: 404 332 4559).Ensure that you consider avoidance of bites too and pack repellent and longloose clothes.

'Havrix' for Hepatitis A. The course of two injections protects you forten years. Gamma globulin is cheaper but less effective.

Typhoid vaccine is recommended by some doctors although it will notprovide total protection and being careful about what you eat and drink is yourbest defense. It is given in two shots, four weeks apart and lasts for threeyears. Unless at exceptional risk, people over the age of 35 who have receivedfour or more courses of typhoid immunization need no more.

A pre-exposure rabies vaccination is worth considering if you are goingto be in contact with animals or more than 24 hours away from a reliable sourceof vaccine. Hikers are at some risk from rural dogs, certain of which carryrabies, and those visiting coastal or rainforest areas could be exposed torabid bats.

Personal Expenses

For your own personal expenses we recommend you carry fundsin US dollars cash (mixed denomination, unmarked and undamaged bank notes) tochange into local currency. We also recommend you carry a cash card, as avariety of ATM ('hole-in-the-wall') machines are available in Lima, Arequipa,Puno and Cuzco. Credit card purchases often incur a fee.

Regarding US dollar travellers cheques: These can be changed in larger towns,typically incurring commission rates of between 2 and 5%.

The cost of the tour includes all meals while on the trek and breakfasts intowns. You will need money to cover: other meals, snacks and drinks(approximately 15-25% cheaper than US), airport tax ($27 departure tax fromPeru), optional excursions (rafting Cusco $30, mountain biking Cusco $30),extra entrance fees, tips, laundry, handicrafts etc.

Tipping is a normal part of life in Latin America. Local staff on trekking andjungle expeditions often look to group members for recognition of theirservices. For this tour, we recommend you allow approx US$40 for tipping.

Insurance

You must have insurance to cover you against medical expensesand repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities youwill be participating in, including trekking, mountain biking, climbing andwhite-water rafting if applicable. Please send us a copy of your policy as soonas possible if you are not taking our insurance policy.

Luggage

You will need to bring a main piece of lockable luggage,which will be left in the hotel in Cuzco while you are trekking. For your trekyou should re-pack into a kit bag, hold-all or rucksack (a soft bag). This willcontain your sleeping bag and camping mat (provided), flashlight, toiletries,changes of clothes, and spare footwear. It will be transported for you byporters. You will also require a daypack of approximately thirty-litercapacity, for carrying your camera, water, waterproofs and spare clothes, sunprotection, first aid kit, and other items you may need during the day.

Books

OutlineItinerary

The followingitinerary is intended as a working guide only and is subject to variation as aresult of local conditions, weather and government restrictions. We reserve theright to alter (lengthen or shorten) the tour at any time if necessary. 1000m =3281ft. 1km = 0.62 miles

Day 1: Flyto Lima. You will be met from your flight at the airport and taken to the Limahotel. (1 night hotel).

Day 2: We take an early flight to the colonial city of Arequipa(2,325m), which commands impressive views of three nearby volcanoes: El Misti(5,821m), Chachani (6,075m) and Pichu Pichu (5,542m). Known as La Ciudad Blanca(The White City), it is built from a light-colored pumice called sillar whichserves as a testament to the region's volcanic origins. Arequipa, a city fullof character, is also an ideal base for a trip to the Colca Canyon. With a yearround spring climate (guaranteed sunshine for 300-plus days of the year), it isan ideal place to begin acclimatizing to altitude.

Most of the agricultural terracing adorning thesurrounding countryside owes its origins to the influential Huari and Tiahuanacocultures which predominated between the 7th and 11th centuries AD.Post-Tiahuanaco, it was a regional culture, the Juli, which dominated the Chilivalley until the 15th century, when the all-conquering Incas arrived.

The city of Arequipa was officially founded in1540 by the newly arrived Spanish. Originally no more than a simple town of mudand straw, the 17th and 18th centuries saw the city thrive as a key trading centeron the silver route between the mines of Potosi and Colonial capital Lima.Then, in the 19th century, the city benefited from the export of alpaca wool toBritain. Although its fortunes have dwindled somewhat since, Arequipa remainsthe most important commercial city in southern Peru, with a population of closeto a million.

Over the centuries, Arequipa has periodicallybeen hit by earthquakes. Although several colonial buildings have beendestroyed as a consequence, a number of churches, convents and palaces havesurvived intact. Particularly worthy of note, and definitely worth a visit, isthe Santa Catalina Convent. (1 night hotel)

Day 3: We take a two-day trip to the Colca Valley. The drive north takesus around the base of Chachani and through the Salinas y Aguada Blanca nationalreserve, where we have the rare opportunity of spotting grazing vicuña. Thisendemic camelid species, wild progenitor of the domesticated alpaca, isnormally extremely elusive.

The road reaches the journey's high point(4,800m), before beginning a dramatic descent to the Colca Valley. To thenorth, the glaciers of Mismi (5,596m) can be seen glinting in the sun. Thesource of the Amazon river was recently traced to a glacial lake high up on theflanks of this very peak! The descent ends at the small town of Chivay(3,633m), our night-stop. (1 night hostel)

Day 4: We leave Chivay early and head west, following the south side ofthe Colca valley. Across to the north, banks of impressive agriculturalterracing can be seen. Although still in use today, the majority dates from pre-Incatimes.

Just a few kilometers west of town, the valleybegins to narrow and its sides to steepen as the Colca Valley turns into theColca Canyon. The canyon reaches an average depth of well over a thousand metersfrom rim to river. As we follow the road along the canyon's southern rim, theAmpato (6,320m) and Sabancaya volcanoes may come into view away to the west.

The main attraction of the canyon is the AndeanCondor, the world's largest land bird. It weighs in at some 12 kg, but with awingspan of over three meters, achieves amazing efficiency in flight. Withbarely a beat of its wings it is capable of soaring to great heights andgliding enormous distances. Our destination is Tres Cruces, a natural plateaulocated on a bend in the road. This vantage point is located close to a nestingsite in the canyon below. Early in the morning, condors are often sighted asthey rise majestically on the day's first thermals. We return to Arequipa inthe afternoon and check back in to our hotel. (2 nights hotel)

Day 5: Today we have a free day in Arequipa. Not to be missed is theexcellent Santuarios Andinos Museum where you can see 'Juanita', the mummy of ayoung Inca-period sacrificial victim discovered high up on the Ampato volcanoin 1995. Also, there are mummies and archaeological remains from other sacredsites. Another must is the Santa Catalina convent. Founded in 1579 and closedto all visitors until 1970, this is a fascinating labyrinth of buildings; likea city in miniature. At one time up to 300 nuns lived here, shut away from theworld. A tour gives an impression of what life must have been like.

Day 6: Today we take a short flight to the market town of Juliaca on theAltiplano. An extensive plateau occupying vast stretches of the southernPeruvian and Bolivian highlands, the Altiplano is carpeted by ichu scrub-grassand grazed by roaming herds of llama and alpaca. Lake Titicaca (3,838m), themajor feature of the Altiplano, is like a vast ocean set in the middle of theAndes. Its shoreline and islands support numerous Indian communities.

We drive to the bustling lakeside town of Puno,the main port on the Peruvian side of the lake, taking in the ruins ofSillustani en route. Set spectacularly on a peninsula overlooking Lake Umayo,this fascinating archaeological site features several finely engineered pre-Columbianfunerary towers. (1 night hotel)

Days 7-8: We embark on a two-day trip to Taquile Island on LakeTiticaca. Taquile is a unique and beautiful place. Situated some 3½ hours byboat from Puno, it is only 4km long by about 1km wide but supports a populationof almost 2,000. The island hosts some small archaeological sites from theTiahuanaco culture, but it is the culture of the people living here today, onefar removed from our own and distinct from the rest of Peru, which makesTaquile so interesting. The island is known for the sophistication of itsweaving, practiced from a young age by both males and females. The islandersspin, knit and weave whenever they have a free moment in the busy agriculturalcalendar.

By staying overnight with the local Indiansthere is plenty of scope for experiencing at first hand a lifestyle barelychanged over the centuries, as well as exploring the island's many trails,enjoying the stunning scenery and perhaps a dramatic sunset. After a morning onthe island, we return to Puno in the afternoon. (1 night village house Taquile,1 night hotel Puno)

Day 9: We travel by bus (or train*) across the Altiplano toCuzco. About half way, the road and railway track climb to a pass at 4,320 meters,and then descend into the broad, fertile Vilcanota valley. Finally we turn intothe Huatanay valley, and ascend the final few kilometers to Cuzco. (2 nightshotel)

*Depends on day of the week.

Day 10: Todaywe have a half-day guided tour of the city and outlying ruins, with the rest ofthe day free.

The archaeological capital of South America,Cuzco and the surrounding region contain a wealth of archaeological andcultural treasures unequalled in the Old World. Cuzco is also a lively andexciting city boasting an excellent range of restaurants and an activenightlife to suit everybody.

Today, tourism constitutes an important sourceof income for the city, but it remains an important commercial center for thesurrounding farming communities. Its markets sell a huge variety of highlandand jungle produce.

Cuzco is an attractive city which uniquelyblends Imperial Inca with Spanish Colonial architecture. Legend has it thatCuzco was founded around AD 1100 by the first Sapan Inca (Emperor) Manco Capac.He was the son of the Sun god Inti, and had been sent to earth with hissister-wife Mama Ocllo (the daughter of the Moon), with instructions to civilizehumanity. Their travels took them to the Huatanay valley, where Manco Capacplunged his vara (staff) into the fertile ground and founded the capital of thenew empire. Archaeological evidence suggests that, for the first few hundredyears, the Quechua ("Inca") tribe kept within a short radius of Cuzcowith little conquering ambition. Only with the arrival of the ninth EmperorPachacutec in 1438, did serious expansion begin and, very soon, Cuzco hadbecome the center of a rapidly expanding empire. Pachacutec also mastermindedthe design of the imperial capital. At its heart was Huacaypata, a hugeceremonial plaza surrounded by sumptuous palaces. The characteristic stoneworkof those structures is today still much in evidence in and around the colonialPlaza de Armas.

When Francisco Pizarro and the SpanishConquistadores reached Peru, Cuzco was the thriving capital of a flourishingempire. But a rift within the ruling family had led to civil war and madeconquest relatively easy. The Spanish were impressed by the grandeur of Cuzco,but spent little time admiring it before they began looting. From the time ofPizarro's arrival until 1572, Cuzco witnessed many battles of nativeresistance. In 1536, the Spaniards' appointed ruler, Manco Inca, rebelled andlaid siege to the Spanish-controlled city. Against all the odds, however, theSpanish managed to break out and retake it. Manco retreated to Vilcabamba, deepin the forested mountains north of Machu Picchu, and led a resistance which wasto continue until 1572 when his descendant, Tupac Amaru, was captured bycolonial forces and put to violent death in Cuzco.

Days 11-14: We leave Cuzco early and drive to the village of Chilca,the starting point for our trek. The journey takes us across the Pampa de Anta,down to the Sacred Valley and on to Ollantaytambo. This fascinating townretains more Inca architecture than any other inhabited town, and we set asidesome time for exploration before resuming our journey to Chilca (2,700m). Bymid/late morning we begin our trek.

The Inca Trail is the best-known trek in Peru.Although it formed only a small part of the overall network of Inca highways,this 'Royal Road' to Machu Picchu, reclaimed from the cloud forests less than ahundred years ago, clearly had important ritual functions and probably servedas some form of sacred pilgrimage route related to the veneration of naturaland celestial phenomena. Many well-preserved and finely constructed sites alongthe trail also suggest that access was limited to an elite. The absence of boththe Trail and Machu Picchu from early Spanish chronicles suggests that itsexistence was not known about in colonial times. This would explain how itsreligious structures escaped the violent attentions of fanatical Spanishpurgers of idolatry.

The Trail is a paradise for botanists andbirdwatchers due to the rapid succession of ecological and climatic zones thatare crossed. The region's flora includes 60 species of orchid, and the variedbird life includes hummingbirds and various species of birds of prey.

The campsites we use have been selected with aview to minimizing contact with other trekkers and maximizing our enjoyment ofthe trek. For most of the first day we walk through a temperate environment,camping in the Cusichaca valley at about 2,850m.

On the second day of trekking we pass the tinycommunity of Huayllabamba and embark on the first major ascent of the trek: ademanding 800-meter ascent of the Llullucha valley, via cloud forest and puna,to the Llulluchapampa plateau (3,800m). Here we camp.

The third day is very beautiful, as well as thelongest. We cover the final 400 meters of ascent to the Warmiwañusca Pass(4,200 m), and descend to the Pacasmayo valley (3,600m). We climb out of thevalley, past the ruins of Runkurakay, to our second pass (4,000m). We descendthrough lush cloud forest on a paved Inca pathway, and visit the impressive anddramatically located ruins of Sayajmarca. Resuming our descent through cloudforest, we pass the Conchamarca ruins and continue to the third pass atPhuyupatamarca, where we camp. The views into the bottom of the Urubamba gorge1,700 meters below are spectacular.

On trek day four we make a dramatic descentalong an ancient stairway to the beautiful sacred sanctuary of Huiñay Huayna(2,700 meters) and continue to the Inti Punku (Sun Gate). From here we gain ourfirst views of the stunning Lost City of Machu Picchu spread out below.

We aim to descend to the site in the afternoon,and enjoy the peaceful scene, before dropping a further 400 meters by bus tothe tropical railtrack town of Aguas Calientes. Here we spend the night. Tonightyou have the opportunity for a well-deserved soak in the thermal baths. (3nights camp, 1 night hostel, all meals except final dinner)

Day 15: Today we have the whole morning to enjoy Machu Picchu. After aguided tour, there is ample time to explore the extensive site at your leisure,as well as take the dramatic Inca path up the Huinay Huayna or Puticusimountain. In the afternoon we board our train to Cuzco; one of the world'sgreat railway journeys. (2 nights hotel)

Day 16: Free day in Cuzco. If you fancy something more energetic thanshopping, you may want to go white water rafting (optional) on the Urubambariver.