dossier
Jbel Toubkal
Outline Itinerary
The following itinerary is intendedas a working guide only and is subject to variation as a result of weather,local conditions and group progress. We reserve the right to alter (lengthen orshorten) any trek at any time if necessary.
Local time: EST+6.
Note: Occasionally your trek leader may wish to change your free dayin Marrakech to the beginning of the trek. This depends on weather and locallogistics, and is done entirely for your benefit.
Day 1: Depart home for the flight to Marrakech. Transferto the Hotel Foucauld.
Day 2: Morning departure and drive across the Haouzplain to Imlil (1,740m) in the delightful Mizane valley, one of the mostverdant in the Atlas. Here the Mizane River supports a thriving ruralcommunity, as their extensive cultivations and terraced fields indicate. Centuries of laborious irrigation by theBerbers have resulted in these terraces and walnut trees growing among thebarren rocks. From Imlil we ascend beyond an old reconditioned Kasbah throughwalnut trees, before descending to our Berber host’s home at the picturesqueterraced village of Aremd (also spelt Aremd) 1950m. The village clings to asteep slope with dramatic views across the Aremd plain to the Toubkal massif.(200 meters ascent).
Day 3: From Aremd we skirt Imlil,concealed in its surrounding groves of walnut trees and from the top of theTizi-n’Tametert pass (2hrs) look down into the chasm of the Imananevalley. Lunch is beside the river inthe enchanting hamlet of Tinhourine after an hour or so of descent. In theafternoon we walk around the deep river valley to our campsite oppositeAmsakrou village (1.5hrs) 1880m.
Day 4: We leave Amsakrou and walk up tothe Tizi-n-Amsakrou pass (1.5hrs), then continue up through cedar groves toreach the dramatic scree bowl of Tarigt. This is traversed on a spectacularpath and culminates in the Tizi-n-Oukaimden pass (2683m). Ascend to Oukaimdenvillage for lunch. Afternoon free to explore. There are impressive views acrossthe plains to Marrakech. We stay at thelicensed Club Alpin Francais. Beer / wine is available. Dinner is at own expense… and so is theAlcohol! There is dormitory accommodation; good warm showers and a living room.The building is under French management.
Day 5: Leaving Oukaimden we have the choice ofeither contouring round the grassy valley of Assif-a-Ait Irene or, for the moreexperienced, an ascent of Jbel Oukaimden (2.5hrs), followed by an excitingridge walk to meet at Tizi-nou Addi pass (2957m) the ridge is very loose inplaces and we pick our way with care. From the Tizi there is a steep descent through crags to the village ofTachdirt, slightly, above which we make camp.
Day 6 We follow a path, which zigzags up the screes to the Tizi Likemtcol (3554m & 3.5 hrs), first climbed by an English party in 1888. We descend to have lunch adjacent to aspring, and then continue down to camp near the Berber summer hamlet of AzibLikempt (2.5hrs). Hard day today.
Day 7: From the remote campsite at Azib Likempt, thetrek turns a sharp left and passes over a spectacular hidden chasm with a largewaterfall in the River Tinzer. The continuing path is beautiful as it meandersadjacent to the river all the way to the green pastures that provides a perfectspot for lunch. A short climb to the Tizi Nourai provides a spectacular view ofToubkal and the Tissili Valley with its rich crop of walnut trees and cacti,before a long descent past some of the most extensive village terracing in theAtlas Mountains. We normally have lunch in the village of Amsouzart amongst the walnut groves before the last 1.5 hours walkingtakes us across the valley and ascend up to the last village before the terminal moraine which encapsulates Lac d’Ifni. Camp is in the village ofTirhaltine, under the prominent Ksour (fortified village of Imhilene). Ascent:846 / Desc 1410m.
Day 8: Fancy a day on the beach? We cut up througha steep boulder field to above the Lac d’Ifni (2312m). This is the only lake inthe High Atlas and lies in the bed of an old glacier, dammed up by moraines asthe glacier retreated towards Toubkal. We descend and then undulate around tothe far side of the lake, where there is an Azib (pastoralist area) which hasbeen decked out in a limited way for tourists with plastic chairs, and ‘beachhuts’ where you can lie in the shade. Normally the water is just about warmenough to swim in (the 06 group played a limited game of water Polo andsFrisbee!) Lunch is taken at the azib. Depending on the number of other groups around, You will then probablyascend the valley to one of the higher azibs to camp so that tomorrow’s climbover the Tizi-n’-Quanoums pass islessened. Ascent: Varied pending oncampsite, up to 950m / Desc 130m.
Day 9: We walk across the gravel bed of theAssif-a- Moursaine valley and start the climb up to the Tizi-n’Ouanoums pass(4.5 hrs) it is a big climb of about 1300m, but is one of the most spectacularin the Atlas. From there a steep descent through scree brings us to our campingplace near the Toubkal refuge (1.5 hrs). Ascent: up to 1300m, but probably around 850m depending upon the camping site of the previous night / Descent 580m.
Day 10: The ascent of Jbel Toubkal (4167m) takesabout three and a half hours from our campsite and we aim to be back at theToubkal refuge for a glass of mint tea with our picnic lunch. From our campsitenear the hut we make an early morning (around 05:30) rising traverse over grassand rocks, then a short scree scramble up to the base of the South Cwm. Wecontinue the ascent to Tizi-n’Toubkal (3941m), and then traverse a rising crestto the summit plateau. The ascent of Toubkal is at times tiring, but nottechnically difficult. From the top there is normally an unobstructed view inevery direction over craggy peaks, sweeping in- to the Sahara far in the south,the Mgoun to the East and Sahro south east and . The village of Aremd can beseen seven thousand feet below, the Jbel Siroua fifty kilometers away and thepeaks and passes we have already climbed can be traced. Ascent & Desc1093m.
Day 11: The morning can be spent at leisureexploring this high altitude valley,usually we have a late start today but it is downhill! we walk down the valley to the holy shrineof Sidi-Chamarouch, then continue our descent to our base at Aremd. (3hrs).
Day 12: Day to relax and observe the Berbervillage life of Aremd. This is a good opportunity to buy some local pieces ofcraftwork. There should also be the opportunity of going on a day walk of up tofour hours in the surrounding area. Such as the Col de Mzik. ( around 500 mascent + descent) Why not go to the Haman Turkish / Moroccan bath in thevillage, and have a thorough scrubbing, (although we wouldn’t recommend the massage). You will feel all the betterfor it…honest!
Day 13 Walking down to Imlil, a mid-morning drivebrings us to Marrakech and the Hotel Foucauld. Afternoon at leisure. It is well worth spending some time in theDjemma-ef-Fna, the busy main square of Marrakech. Your Trek Leader will adviseyou of other places of interest. There is a post trek evening meal included atthe Hotel Foucauld.
Day 14: Morning tour of the souks (markets) ofMarrakech for those last minute presents. Particularly good are the productsthat are made of wood and leather, but you will find plenty of interestingitems including dates and walnuts. The leader will be able to help you finditems that you may want, but we leave the haggling up to you... it is all, toostressful! In the afternoon we recommend that you go to the Saadian tombs andmaybe if you still have clothes to look smart in, attempt to get into thefamous Mamoumia Hotel for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that SirWinston Churchill often stayed in, and is still, by World standards, excellent.
Lunch and dinner today is at yourexpense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, the central square in thecity, which at night takes on vibrance and personality that is unique in theWorld, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners now eatactually in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smokingup) the place. Here you can eat for around 20 dirhams/US$0.25 (including a softdrink) fish and chips, kebabs, and chicken. The advantage of the place is thatyou can actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it ifnecessary.
Day 15:Transfer to the airport (15 minutes) and Fly Marrakech to home, normally anearly morning flight. (Note that most the duty free shops sell items in FrenchFrancs only, although if you do have a few Dirhams left the airport cafes willserve you drinks for them).
Accommodation
3 nightsaccommodation in Marrakech normally in the pleasant Hotel Foucauld boasting agood restaurant (alcohol not availablebut can be brought in) which on warmerdays serves a buffet on the hotel roof,overlooking the majestic minaret of theKoutoubia mosque. Here you have 2nights on B&B and one night at half board. Rooms are simple en suite.
In Aremdyou will stay in a simple café Hotel for 3 nights during the tour on a fullboard basis. Rooms are simple hostel-style, several beds to a room. Some people sleep on the terrace on hotnights under the stars. Hot water is erratic, but the food is great!
InOukaimden you stay in a Club Alpin Francais Hostel, on B&B basis withmultiple bunked rooms, there is a comfortable living room area. Warm water forshowers, Beer and wine is available at reasonable prices.
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From2007, on night 5, if it is completed, you may be staying a night in the KasbahTachedirt currently being rebuilt in 2006. If this is available this willreplace our normal camping night near Tachedirt. (Full Board).
Equipment & Clothing
In addition to a good pair of broken in (but not breaking down) walkingboots, a 3 season sleeping bag, a fleece, sunglasses a hat and a couple ofwater bottles (with water purification) are essential . The sun can beexcessively strong, and cotton long sleeved shirts and sun block are veryimportant. A detailed list of recommended clothing and equipment is included inour pre-departure booklet, which is sent with confirmation of your reservation.Also bring with you books and games; you have plenty of time to use them!
Food
All food is included while on trek,apart from your evening meal at the CAF hostel at Oukaimedene on trek. InMarrakech you will be staying on a Bed and breakfast basis, although there is apost trek group meal at the hotel. Thefood that you will eat is very healthy on trek, including Couscous, Tagine,olives, sardines, nuts and fruit. Please decide as soon as possible once youarrive on trek whether you are going to be a vegetarian. This is not a problem for our Berber cookcrew, as apart from the fish (Tuna and Sardines) often served at lunch timewith vegetable salad; there is not normally a lot of meat and when meat isavailable separate dishes such as vegetarian tagine, can always be prepared.Many people bring their own treats and food supplements if they have specialdietary requirements. It is very difficult or impossible to get a lot of commonwestern items actually once on trek, but things are improving.
Average lunch or dinner costs areabout 50-100 Dirhams (US$5.50-US$11) without drinks. *
Soft drinks cost between 5 Dirhams (US$0.55)and about 10 Dirhams (US$1) for a Coke. Freshly squeezed orange juice is alsohighly recommended 5D - 7D (US$0.55-US$0.75) and only 2.5D (US$0.30) inthe Djema el Fna. Berber tea variesbetween 2D - 9D (US$0.25-US$1).
*Alcoholic beverages are normallyimpossible to obtain out of the big towns and even then are not particularlygood by Western standards. We really recommend making use of your duty freeallowance to obtain your favorite tipple.
Tipping
Rather like in Nepal (if you havebeen) the Berbers expect a tip for good service. We do stress this isvoluntary, but more and more they see it as part of their income. On the lastnight on trek your leader will quietly encourage you to make some kind ofpresentation; any monies or material items will be gratefully received andshared between the crew.