dossier

In the Shadow of Nanda Devi

Tour Details

Grade B/C: This classic trek takes us across the picturesque meadows and valleys that border the western edge of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. Sometimes known as the Curzon Trail after the British Viceroy that enjoyed this area, the route we follow was used by Shipton and Tilman on their amazing journey to the Nanda Devi basin. During the trek there are many views of the surrounding peaks and the Kuari Pass (3658m) itself has an unrivalled panorama of the Great Himalayan peaks including Nanda Devi (7816m), Changabang (6864m), Dunagiri (7066m) and Kamet (7756m). The trails are generally good, being in regular use by local villagers and traders.  The trek is not technically difficult but the ascents and descents can be long and feel relentless, especially in hot weather. You should, therefore, have some experience of long distance walking. Surprisingly, this area is not over-trekked and indeed it is uncommon to meet other groups on this route. In keeping with this lack of outside influence, the villagers are still inherently traditional in habit and revere the landscape and nature that surrounds them, a timely reminder to us all.  A classic trek, and a must for the keen Himalayan walker.

Climate: On the trek daytime temperatures can be warm or hot (up to 25°C/80°F) and cool to cold at night. It may freeze at the highest camps. Although the departures are timed to coincide when the weather is normally good, please bear in mind that in any mountain area the weather is never wholly predictable and you should be prepared for any adverse weather conditions.

What’s Included

Accommodation: New Delhi: The Siddarth Hotel. Situated 4km/2.4mi from the city center this hotel is fully air-conditioned and has a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. B&B Delhi and 2 or 3 Guest Houses. Camping on trek. All meals on trek.

Not Included: International airfare, visa fees, passports or vaccinations.  Excursions unless stated. Hotel porterage or tips. Meals and drinks other than those stated. Travel Insurance.

Altitude

10 days walking. Maximum altitude 3658m. Average 2750m. The trails on this trek are of reasonable standard, and are either pilgrimage or trade routes between villages. Higher up we follow shepherd trails through the high pastures.

Documents
If you are applying for an Indian visa by mail, the Indian High Commission requires up to five weeks to process your application, so ensure that you submit your application in good time. Also note, however, that Indian visas are only valid for six months from the date of issue, and therefore must not be applied for too early. This means you will have to have left India within six months of issue of the visa.   Call the local India Embassy for up to date visa requirements, tel:  202-364-4359.

Health Matters

A full medical kit accompanies the trek, but we recommend that people carry their own small personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents will be included in the pre-departure information as well as more general information on vaccinations. You will need to consult your doctor usually 5 weeks prior to departure, to work out an immunization schedule relevant to your destination country. The following should be used as a guideline only: - Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid, Hepatitis A, Malaria, and Meningitis. More details concerning vaccinations are given in our Indian pre-department that is forwarded to you on confirmation of your booking.

Personal Expenses

The amount of money you take with you depends on how much you intend to spend!  Souvenir purchases aside, a sum of $250 should cover any extra costs, although it would be wise to take a little more, as you will invariably be tempted by the very attractive handicrafts of the region.  Main meals in cities such as Delhi and Kathmandu at the very best restaurants are inexpensive. Dinner will cost between US$12-24.  Bring duty free drinks, as spirits are costly! Wines are not of a high standard and beers are usually $2 per bottle. US travellers checks are easily exchanged in the major hotels and banks. Most hotels and some shops in the big cities accept credit cards such as American Express and MasterCard.

Insurance

You must have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities you will be participating in, including trekking, mountain biking, climbing and white-water rafting if applicable.

IMPORTANT NOTE: While every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote mountain region. Given the nature of these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest day is taken. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, and local availability of porters, can contribute to the need for changes. Mark Butterworth will do everything in his power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as possible in such events. Timings given are approximate.

Books

The Arts of India: Cornell University Press
India File: Trevor Fishlock
Trekking in the Indian Himalaya: Lonely Planet
India Travel Survival Kit: Lonely Planet.

Outline Itinerary  

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary.

Note: if circumstances dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.

Day 1:  Fly to New Delhi.

Day 2: We arrive New Delhi early morning and transfer to the hotel.

About Delhi:  Delhi basically is 7 cities all merged into one and laced together by the new city of the British Raj, designed by Lutyens & Baker. It was one of the boldest expressions anywhere in the world of British Imperial ambitions and has endless sightseeing possibilities. Our tour of Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, at the site where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated, the Red Fort, once the most lavish fort and palace of the Mughal Empire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m high tower of victory.

RED FORT. This imposing monument to the rule of Shah Jahan was begun in 1639 and completed in 1648, taking its name from the red sandstone used in its construction. It is said to have cost 10 million rupees to build, much of it spent on the opulent marble royal palaces within. Here the Emperor exercised his divine authority in the Halls of Public and Private Audience - seated in the latter on the fabulous gold-canopied Peacock Throne that was inlaid with a vast number of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

THE QUTB MINAR. The Qutb Minar is a soaring tower of victory that was built in 1193.  The tower has three distinct stories each marked by a projecting balcony. The first three stories are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth of marble and sandstone. Today this impressive ornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkably well.

Day 3: We take the early morning train to Haridwar, one of the most holy Hindu towns on the banks of the Ganges. We then continue by road to the small hamlet of Devprayag perched above the confluence of the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers. A visit to the saddhus on the riverbank for a good weather blessing is a must!  Simple guesthouse.

Day 4: We follow the gently winding road into the heart of the Garwhal foothills, past Rudraprayag with its memorial stone to Jim Corbett and the infamous man eating leopard and onwards up the Pindar valley. We camp above the road-head near Mundoli. Camp.

Day 5: An excellent start to our journey as we trek through rhododendron forest, hand-tilled fields and small, friendly villages. We camp near an old Forest Rest House with an impressively large deodar. (Pine tree). Camp.

Day 6: Today involves a long climb to the magnificent bugyal or grazing meadow of Bedni. Here we are rewarded with startling views of Trisul (7120m) and Nanda Ghunti (6390m). A tougher day of steep ascent and descent. Camp.

Day 7: Classic walking today as we head north through Rolling Meadows bordered with ancient rhododendron trees that give the most wonderful display of color in spring. The trails are good and the scenery magnificent. We camp near a river beside the village of Kanol. Camp.

Day 8: A tough morning as we make the long descent to the Nandakini River. A welcome paddle in the clear water to sooth our feet whilst the porters set up camp.  A long half-day. Camp.

Day 9: We start the day by trekking up and out of the Nandakini valley, a tough but rewarding climb along good trails.  Birds of prey such as Lammergeyer, Golden Eagle and Himalayan Griffon are common in this area. The day's efforts are well worth it as we camp in peaceful and wonderfully flat meadow for the night. Camp.

Day 10: A day traversing one of the main valleys that radiate out from the Inner Sanctuary of Nanda Devi.  A steep descent takes us to our interesting campsite above the gorge of the Bharagithi. Camp.

Day 11: We cross the river on a splendid suspension bridge.  Shipton and Tilman were not so fortunate and had to improvise a crossing out of fallen tree trunks and rope.... From the river we climb steeply to a level trail that takes us to our next campground, in sight of the Kuari Pass. Camp.

Day 12: An easier day as we make camp at Dhakwani near the base of the Kauri Pass in preparation for an early start tomorrow. Camp.

Day 13: We make a pre-dawn start for the pass to gain the best views. Climbing in the footsteps of Shipton and Tilman, we follow the zigzag path to the top of the pass (3658m). The route is not difficult and the views that unfold at the top are unrivalled anywhere in the Himalayas. A stunning panorama of snow covered 6000 and 7000m peaks stretches as far as the eye can see. After savoring this moment we descend to a sheltered grazing meadow to watch the peaks fade into the twilight. Camp.

Day 14: The final day of our classic trek. We descend further towards the Alaknanda valley and the small settlement of Tapovan where we rejoin our transport for the short ride to Josimath, an important halting point for Shipton and Tilman during their explorations. Hotel.

Day 15: A long day of driving as we follow the river to the Alaknanda valley southwest on to Devprayag. Simple guesthouse.

Day 16: A long day of driving as we follow the river to the Alaknanda valley southwest on to Devprayag. Simple guesthouse.