dossier
Abode of the Gods
Outline Itinerary
Wereserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time ifnecessary.
Note: if circumstances dictate, certain details, such asovernight stops may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.
Day 1: ARRIVE DELHI. Transferto your Delhi hotel (for information on Delhi hotels please see the notes atthe end of the itinerary).
Day 2: SIGHTSEEING IN DELHI. Sightseeingthen transfer to overnight train. Youcheck out at midday and in the afternoon we provide transport and anEnglish-speaking guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Old and NewDelhi. The heat, dust, sights andsounds of India's frenetic capital are quite an initial culture shock! This is followed by an evening (approx.19.00 hours) transfer to the railway station to board the express train toPathankot, traveling in air-conditioned sleeper compartments. The express is due to depart at 21.00 hours.
About Delhi: Delhi basically is 7 cities all merged intoone and laced together by the new city of the British Raj, designed by Lutyens& Baker. It was one of the boldest expressions anywhere in the world ofBritish Imperial ambitions and has endless sightseeing possibilities. Our tourof Delhi will include the Raj Ghat memorial, at the site where Mahatma Gandhiwas cremated, the Red Fort, once the most lavish fort and palace of the MughalEmpire and the Qutb Minar, the 73m high tower of victory.
RED FORT.This imposing monument to the rule of Shah Jahan was begun in 1639 andcompleted in 1648, taking its name from the red sandstone used in itsconstruction. It is said to have cost 10 million rupees to build, much of itspent on the opulent marble royal palaces within. Here the Emperor exercisedhis divine authority in the Halls of Public and Private Audience - seated inthe latter on the fabulous gold-canopied Peacock Throne that was inlaid with avast number of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds.
THE QUTB MINAR. TheQutb Minar is a soaring tower of victory that was built in 1193. The tower has three distinct stories eachmarked by a projecting balcony. Thefirst three stories are made of red sandstone, the fourth and fifth of marbleand sandstone. Today this impressiveornate tower has a slight tilt, but otherwise has worn the centuries remarkablywell.
Day 3: ARRIVEPATHANKOT, DRIVE TO MC.LEOD GANJ. The trainarrives at 07.20 hrs. A two and a half hour taxi ride takes us to McLeod Ganj(6,200ft/1,890m). You break your journey to have breakfast at Kotla. McLeodGanj is home to a thriving Tibetan community, who settled here with the DalaiLama in 1959. In the afternoon there is a sightseeing tour laid on for thosethat wish, otherwise the time is yours to explore the town or relax at theHotel. Evening pre trek briefing. Overnight at the Hotel Tibet.
About Dharamsala & Mc.Leod-Ganj
Populationapprox. 20,000. Founded in 1855, it hasone of the most spectacular settings for a Hill Station. It is built along aspur of the Dhauladhar range and varies in height from 4,500ft at the bazaar to5,900ft at McLeod-Ganj. It is surrounded by trees and is set against a backdropof peaks rising to over 15,600ft/4,755m on three sides. The great granitemountains almost overhang the town. Views are superb, not only of the mountains but also over the KangraValley and Siwaliks. There are two sections to the town, the upper part isMcLeod Ganj and the lower is called Dharmsala. The distance between them is almost 10km by road from centre to centrebut there is a shorter, steeper path that takes about 40 minutes to cover. Inboth there is a strong Tibetan influence. The Dalai Lama settled here after hisflight across the Himalaya following the Chinese invasion of Tibet in October1959. There is a monastery at McLeod Ganj, a short distance along from theDalai Lama's residence, and a Library.
Dharmsalawas one of the 80 hill stations established by the British between 1815 and1847 though it was not on a par with Simla, Nainital and Mussoorie in terms ofpopularity and size. The Church of St John-in-the-Wilderness (1860) is a shortdistance below McLeod Ganj on the way to Forsythganj. Along with other buildings in the area it was destroyed by theearthquake of 1905 but has been rebuilt. The 8th Lord of Elgin, one of the fewViceroys to die in office, is buried here. Apparently, it was his wish as itreminded him of his beloved native Scotland. There are some very attractivestained glass windows here and some fascinating tombstone inscriptions.
Day4: TREK TOGEHRA (6,000ft/1,829m). Approx. 5 hours walk. After breakfast youleave Mcleod-Ganj behind and ascend into pine and rhododendron forest beforereaching Dal Lake. The highest point oftoday's walk is just before Dal Lake at around 6,700ft/2,042m (not to beconfused with the Kashmir lake!) for an early lunch. To continue our journeyyou pass several hamlets before descending towards Gehra, your first campsite.There is a chance to swim and rest tired feet in the nearby river. You may well see monkeys in this area.
Day5: TREK TONOLI. (7,000ft/2,134m). Approx. 5 hours walk. Morning tea is brought toyou first thing. After a leisurely breakfast, you make your way along windingshepherd trails, through a valley dotted with villages and cultivated terraces untilyou reach Kereri, a small village inhabited by Gaddi shepherds where you havelunch. Here there is a one hundred year old Forest Officer's bungalow. Built by the British, it was part of asystem of local administration. Many villages have Water Buffalo and you maywell see the men and women spinning and weaving wool. In the afternoon you have a gradual ascent through pine, oak andrhododendron forest to reach Noli, gateway to the domain of the Gaddi shepherds.Camp beside the wooden bridge at Noli.
Day 6: TREKTOWARDS THE DAULA-DHAR MOUNTAINS (8,000ft/ 2,438m). Approx. 6 hours walk. You strike camp at08.30 am and continue deeper into the valley along a river bed that leads youtowards the Daula-Dhar mountains, having lunch beside the river. In the morningyou also pass through a lot more rhododendron and walk down a stepped pathbuilt by the British. Many such paths exist through the mountains hereabouts.In the afternoon you continue your gradual ascent through pine forests, untilyou reach the campsite. There are many aquamarine pools for anyone who fanciesa cold swim.
Day7: TREK TOKERERI LAKE. (10,500ft/3,200m).Approx. 4 hours walk. You follow a forest trail up a steep ridge through thickpine and bearded oak forest until you reach Kereri lake situated at the base ofthe Minkiani pass. This is a long, tiring climb. Camp at Kereri Lake. The afternoon is free to explore thesurrounding high ridges that offer spectacular views of both the Kangra valleybelow and the Dhaula-Dhar mountain range. There is a temple here just near thelakeside.
Day 8:TREK TO RHELLA. (8,000ft/2,438m). Approx. 5 hours walk. Today we continue ourjourney by crossing a ridge and making a steep descent (again there is nohurry) into an unspoilt valley. Here there is rhododendron and wild chestnuttrees, green meadows with alpine flowers and clear mountain streams. We havelunch along the way before reaching Rhella, the next camping area.
Day 9: REST DAY. Time to relax in the camp and go dipping in thenearby river, read or write diaries. There will be an optional walk in theafternoon.
Day10: TREK TO LAKA RIVER. (6,500ft/1,981m).Approx. 6 hours walk. You follow in the footsteps of the Gaddi shepherds,winding your way down Rhella Valley and stop for lunch beside a river. We walkover intermediate ridges, before descending towards our campsite near Lakariver. In the afternoon there is an optional walk to Guna temple, 7,000ft/2,134m,(approx 2 hours walk, there and back) a pilgrimage centre for the Gaddishepherds. Sightings of the Goddesshave been reported in this area and pilgrims travel great distances to offertheir respects.
Day 11: TREK TO TRIUND. (9,000ft/2,743m).Approx. 5 hours walk. A gradual climb past cultivated terraced fields andvillage hamlets brings us to Gullu ridge 7,500ft/2,286m, where you have lunch.A long afternoon walk takes you to Triund, situated at the foot of theDhaula-Dhar range. You camp on a meadow with views of the peaks above and theKangra valley below.
Day12: TREK TO LAKA. (11,000ft/3,353m). Approx. 4 hours walk. After breakfast arocky trail leads you through pine forest in a steady ascent to Lake Got (11,000ft/3,353m),at the base of the Indra-Har pass (14,100ft/4,328m).
Day13: OPTIONAL WALK TO THE INDRA HAR PASS. WALK TO DHARAMKOT. (14,100ft/4,328m). An earlymorning start for those who want to climb the Indra Har pass. (Approx 4 hrswalk) From the pass you will be rewarded by views of the Pir Panjal Himalayasand Mount Kailash, the abode of Shiva. Packed lunch en route. In the afternoonwe will walk to Dharamkot, (approx 3 hours walk) a protected nature reserve andhome to the Butterworth family. Thislies on a wooded ridge, with views up to the craggy peaks of the Dhaula Dharridge - the most beautiful perhaps being Moon Peak (15,100ft/4,604m). There are also very fine views across theKangra valley. The protected status ofthe woods means that much of the wildlife is relatively tame; some very finepheasants can be seen, including chir pheasant and Khalij pheasant. Accommodation will be in stone cottages ortents.
Day 14: RETURN TO MCLEOD GANJ, VISIT TIBETAN CENTRES, THEN DRIVETO PATHANKOT FOR TRAIN TO DELHI. There is a 1 hour walk down through the woods fromDharamkot to McLeod Ganj. The day is spent exploring the Tibetan handicraftscentre run by the Dalai Lama's sister. You will also visit the Tibetanchildren’s' village, a refugee centre for homeless Tibetan children. You thendrive back to Pathankot to catch the 17:45 overnight train back to Delhi.
Day 15: ARRIVE DELHI. Early morning and transfer toyour Delhi hotel. After breakfast at the hotel your bags will be left with thebell captain and the morning is free to finish off any souvenir hunting. Fly home late evening of Day 15 or early amof Day 16th depending on flight timings.
Day 16: FLY HOME.
Grade: Moderate (B)
You should bereasonably fit. Please note that although in terms of altitude and number ofdays of consecutive trekking, this trek fits our own definition of 'moderate',it is however a remote trek using shepherd paths that are occasionallyill-defined and in places the ascents are a little tough. Nevertheless the daysare usually of short duration and the pace of walking can be as relaxed as youlike.
Climate
The best weatherin this part of Himachal Pradesh is from October/November, with warm sunny daysand pleasant nights. It can be quite hot during the day (up to 25°C) at loweraltitudes and at higher altitudes (over 10,000ft) the temperature can drop to-1°C at night. In late March/April there is the added attraction to many ofrhododendron in bloom. The monsoon season starts from Mid June until the end ofSeptember.
Although thedepartures are timed to coincide with good weather, please bear in mind that inany mountain area the weather is never wholly predictable and that you shouldbe prepared for any adverse conditions.
Altitude: maximum altitude 4,075m average 3,000m. Most of the paths onthis trek are well maintained, being trade routes between the villages. At thetop end of the valley there are only shepherds' paths to follow..
What’s Included
Included: Accommodation Delhi: The 4star Oberoi Maidens Hotel. Situated close to the city center, this hotel isfully air-conditioned and has a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. In McCleodGanj we use the Hotel Tibet, a simple, clean comfortable accommodation andfriendly service in one of the best local hotels.
Train: Wereserve air-conditioned sleeper compartments for the journey to and fromPathankot. The carriage will be either 1st or 2nd class air-conditioned.
Meal Plan: Bedand breakfast in Delhi and McLeod Ganj. Full board on trek.
Not Included: International flights, Visafees, passports or vaccinations. Excursions unless stated. Entry fees to historical monuments. Hotelporter fees or tips. Meals and drinks other than those stated. TravelInsurance.
Documents
Ifyou are applying for an Indian visa by post, the Indian High Commissionrequires up to five weeks to process your application, so ensure that yousubmit your application in good time. Also note, however, that Indian visas areonly valid for six months from the date of issue, and therefore must not beapplied for too early. This means youwill have to have left India within six months of issue of the visa.
Health Matters
A full medical kit accompanies the trek, but werecommend that people carry their own small personal first aid kit. A suggestedlist of contents will be included in the pre-departure information as well asmore general information on vaccinations. You will need to consult your doctorusually 5 weeks prior to departure,to work out an immunization schedule relevant to your destination country. Thefollowing should be used as a guideline only: - Polio, Tetanus, Typhoid,Hepatitis A, Malaria, and Meningitis. More details concerning vaccinations aregiven in our Indian pre-departure information that is forwarded to you onconfirmation of your booking.
Personal Expenses
The amount of money you take with you depends on how much you intend tospend! Souvenir purchases aside, a sum of $250 per person, should cover anyextra costs, although it would be wise to take a little more, as you willinvariably be tempted by the very attractive handicrafts of the region. Mainmeals in cities such as Delhi and Kathmandu at the very best restaurants areinexpensive. Dinner will cost between $12-24. Bring duty free drinks, as alcoholicdrinks are costly! Wines are not of ahigh standard and beers are usually $2 per bottle. US dollar travelers chequesare easily exchanged in the major hotels and banks. Most hotels and some shopsin the big cities accept credit cards such as American Express and MasterCardand VISA.
Insurance
Youmust have insurance to cover you against medical expenses and repatriation.Please ensure your insurance covers all the activities you will beparticipating in, including trekking, mountain biking, climbing and white-waterrafting if applicable.
IMPORTANT NOTE: While every effort is made to keep to the aboveitinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in aremote mountain region. Given the natureof these treks there will quite likely be changes to the itinerary in terms ofanything from on the spot choice of camp site to the day that a rest day istaken. Weather conditions, roadconditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, local availability ofporters, can contribute to the need for changes. Mark Butterworth will do everything in his power to see that youare inconvenienced as little as possible in such events. Timings given are approximate.
Books
Recommended is: Christina Noble'sbook 'Over the High Passes' gives a perfect description of the Gaddipeople and this region: Publisher: FORTANA/COLLINS. ISBN 0-00-637350-X
Alsosee:
The Arts of India: Cornell University Press
India File: Trevor Fishlock
Trekking in the Indian Himalaya: Lonely Planet