dossier

Corsica - Grande Randonnee

OutlineItinerary

The following itinerary is intended as a working guide onlyand is subject to variation as a result of local factors, weather conditionsand group progress.

We reserve the right toalter (shorten or lengthen) any day stage should local conditions make itnecessary. Especially during August, Afternoon storms may necessitate aprolonged siesta!

Day 1: On arrival at Ajaccio airport,coach transfer (3 hours) to Calenzana. Here we stay in a small basic hotel inthe village. There will be time spent purchasing final supplies and there willbe an evening pre-trek briefing. Eat out at own expense. There are some nicerestaurants in town.

Day 2: Calenzana to Ref L’ortuPiobbu (10km, 7 hours) The start! We set off carrying food and equipmentfor three days and two nights. The first section is a steady ascent through thefoothills of the northwestern corner of Haute Corse. Leaving the coast andcivilization behind we head towards the granite ridges that overlook theMelaghia Valley. There is some straightforward scrambling on this section. Theday ends on a beautiful contouring path with a little sting in its tail whichleads us to the refuge L’ortu Piobbu, set in marvelous surroundings. We shelternear the refuge, meal at own expense.

Day 3: Ref L’ortu Piobbu to Ref Carrozzu (8km/5mi, 6.5 hours) A long,fine day’s walk amongst wild rugged mountain scenery, traversing beneathsoaring granite crags and towers. The end of the day brings us down steeplyfrom the ridges to our night stop, the refuge Carrozzu, which stands in aforest clearing. There are beautiful down valley views and you can sit on therefuge balcony on a rose pink sunset, drinking the vin de maison or perhapsvinegar de maison. You should also have time to walk down to the SpasimataRiver where there is a wonderful bathing pool. (Dinner at own expense)

Day 4: Ref Carrozzu to Haute Asco (6km/4mi, 6 hours) Today is a shorter day but is steep in places and neverthelessenjoyable with plenty of scrambling amid superb scenery. We follow theSpasimata Gorge across slabs to the tiny green lake at Muvrella and thensteeply upwards and then across the Punta Culaghia from where we make our verysteep descent down to our accommodation, a ski hotel at Haute Asco. There aresplendid panoramic views from the summit. The shorter day (although your toeswon't think so!) is just as well because of tomorrow. Dinner at hotel includedin the tour price.

Day 5: Haute Asco to Bergeries Ballone (8km/5mi,7hrs) A most thrilling day’s walk across the famous Cirque de La Solitude. Weclimb gradually to the Col Perdu (2183m/7160ft.) and then descend sharply tothe bottom of the Cirque before climbing back up to the Bocca Minuta(2218m/7275ft.), a tiring but exhilarating walk. Fixed chains and cables havebeen strung across the more exposed sections of the Cirque but great care isneeded. From Bocca Minuta  a longdescent brings us to our shelter site at the Bergeries Ballone (1440m/4723ft.).There is no refuge option today, but the bergerie offers one of the mostbeautiful locations en route, and has some creature comforts, like snacks, beerand wine. This can all be consumed reposed upon the wonderful bergerie balconyand a little way down you will find a lovely bathing pool! Dinner is at yourexpense at the bergerie. This saves us carrying too much weight over the Cirquede Solitude.

Day 6: Bergeries Ballone to Castel diVerghio (13km/8mi, 8 hours) Webegin the day by following a track through pine forests, with the smell ofRosemary in the air, then a stiff climb brings us to the Refuge des Mori(2000m/6560ft.), between the peaks of Paglia Orba (2525m/8292ft.) and thefascinating Copu Tafanatu (2335m/7658ft). Our route then descends to aspectacular valley, crossing the river Golo several times and passing poolswhere refreshing swims are possible. Then it is a long winding forest pathuntil finally we emerge onto a road leading to the ski station at Castel diVergio and check into the large Ski hotel there, still resplendent in its circa1973 fittings. (1404m/4605ft.) Dinner at the hotel is included.

Day 7: Castel di Verghio to Ref. Manganu (14km/8mi,6 hours) The easiest day of thetour, beginning on a level track through the forest and later emerging ontoopen, steeper ground with fine views of Paglia Orba and the Cinto range to thenorth, and a fresh view of serrated mountains opening up to the south - a foretaste of things to come.  After a gentledescent to Lac de Nino, we follow a beautiful glistening stream, cutting itsway with large plunge pools for bathing. There are then, bergeries to visitwhere you can find some of the sweetest tasting cheeses, made that very morning,but sold at a price! We end the day’s walk with a relatively level section tothe small refuge at Manganu. A charming location again offering fine views(1601m/5251ft). We shelter near here. Purchase a meal from the refuge.

Day 8: Ref. Manganu to Ref. L’Onda(20km/12mi, 10hrs) A long thrilling – perhaps the hardest  - day in some of the GR20’s most ruggedareas. We begin with a stiff climb to the pass of Breche de Capitello(2225m/7298ft) where we are rewarded with superb views and some spectacular ridgewalking above the Lac de Capitello and Lac de Melo. This ridge leads us to theCol de La Haute Route (2206m/7235ft). After descending to the Pietra Pianarefuge, depending on progress we either shelter around here or we follow awonderfully undulating ridge before dropping down to the snugly set Ondarefuge. If you get as far as Onda today, you have done pretty well. Purchasedinner at the bergerie nearby.

Day 9: Ref. L’Onda to Vizzavona (10km/6mi,6 hrs). Today, weather permitting, we traverse Monte D’Oro one of Corsica’sfinest peaks then descend through the forest to Vizzavona  (one of the lower points of the GR20 at920m/3020ft) where we can look forward to an excellent meal (included at thehotel). In bad weather it is best to walk down the valley from Onda and walkthe road route to Vizzavona for a stay of two nights. (Dinner included at thehotel)

Day 10: In Vizzavona. Just whenyour body decides that it needs a holiday from the holiday, a rest day appears!You are staying at Vizzavona where our hotel boasts a fine charm especially inits cuisine and decor. It is practical and homely without being especiallyluxurious. Groups claim this is the finest accommodation (other than thebivouacs of course!) People can either rest up here totally, building up fatreserves for part two, or take the scenic railway to the beaches of Ajaccio orto the mountain city and former capital of Corte. Retrospective persons may beinclined to go back and climb Monte D'oro, especially if this was not donecoming over from Onda. (Dinner included at the hotel).

Day 11: Vizzavona to Col de Verde(25km/15mi, 11hrs) This is a long stage, but on generally good clear droverstrails beginning with a climb through forest to the Col de Palmente, from whereyou may see the Isle of Elba and the Tuscan coastline – if it is clear! Thencrossing the ridge before contouring down the far slope to the Crete deChufindu and across rolling country to the Col de Verde. There is a finecontrast between the rugged granite peaks of Haute Corse and the gentler, woodedhills of Corse du Sud. At the Col de Verde (1289m/4230ft.) we can usuallyexpect a beer session in the local pizzeria in the evening, before we retire toour well-appointed woodland glade, opposite. Often when we arrive at thepizzeria it is too late to order food, so a basic meal will be carried just incase. Otherwise purchase your own meal at the pizzeria.

Day 12: Col de Verde to Ref. Usciolu (14km/8mi,7 hours) After a steep climb out of the forest to the Col de Prati(1870m/6000ft.) with some excellent shady forests, we come to a high levelgranite strewn plateau. We follow the plateau and its complex ridges all theway to our destination, the refuge d’Usciolu. (Wine, beer and cake!) This is avery long, but fine day’s walk with some easy scrambling and classic ridgewalking to enliven our progress.  Therefuge is set amidst the mountains at 1750m/5741ft. Dine at the refuge at yourown expense.

Day 13: Ref. Usciolu to Ref. Asinau  (14.5 km/9 mi, 8 hours) The first section of today’s routeresumes the ridge and constantly recrosses it. From which the sea is sometimesvisible to the east. The path bypasses some striking rock formations beforeheading down to a beautiful wooded plateau where the nature of the landscapechanges yet again to pastures with sluggish rivers and delphiniums.  Lunch at the abandoned and ruined Auberge dePandinelli, and climb Monte Incudine (2134m/7008ft). Then a hard descent to thewind swept Asinau refuge. Dine at refuge at own expense.

Day 14: Ref Asinau to Col de Bavella (13km/8mi, 6.5hrs). Last walking day! From Asinau the walk continues and thescenery becomes an amazing mix of, - rock towers and spires as we reach therock climbing mecca of the island– the Torres de Bavella. There are twopossible routes and the one we take depends on the weather and how tired youare feeling. Rendezvous with vehicle for the long, long winding road to thepretty mountain village of Zicavo to be reunited with our baggage. Herewe will stay in a small hotel for one night. Bars and pizzerias and lovely forest views; a worthy place to finish thetour, to clink glasses and celebrate! (Dinner at your own expense).

Day 15. An early start: A 1.5 hour bus journey to Ajaccio for yourreturn flight home.

Grade

“D”: Demanding. Please note this is an extremelychallenging trek, just about the hardest tour we do. Due to limited vehicleaccess this is essentially a backpacking trek. We suggest you take a pack ofaround 65+ liters for this reason. The terrain is very demanding, with frequentascents and descents, and loose ground underfoot in places. There are also somescrambling sections where a reasonable head for heights is required; the routeshould never be underestimated and thus this is not a route for first time backpackersand even experienced trekkers need to be capable to cope with long, hard andhot days and have the right humor and resilience for a real adventure. Do noteven consider this tour if you have knee or ankle problems, have difficulty onrock or with heights! Note also that a couple of days are long and thus a gooddeal of stamina is required.

When booking this tour you will need to tell us about yourprevious walking experience so that we can make sure that you understand thenature of the walk and so decide whether this is in fact for you. Ultimatelyhowever you need to make the correct decision regarding your own abilities. Ifyou have to leave the tour due to being unable to  cope with the physical demands you will be responsible foralternative arrangements.

How theTrek is Organized

There is very little vehicle access on the GR20, which passesthrough only one village of any size. To minimize carrying after the start fromCalenzana you will be reunited with your baggage at Haute Asco (day 4), Col deVergio (day 6), Vizzavona (day 9), and Zicavo (day 14). Apart from this novehicle support is possible, and backpacking for up to three nights isnecessary. You will need to be carrying a sleeping bag, an insulation mat, a“Goretex” type shelter bag, or a light weight tent, waterproofs, spare clothesand a share of group food and cooking equipment. A small tent can normally beerected each night, and if you can share the tent, you can share the weight to!

The general improvement of the availability of foodstuffs inthe mountain refuges has meant that from 2007 in order to save weight and time,you will be able to purchase your dinners on trek from the refuges (10 – 20Euros (US $13 -26) per meal). As these cannot be pre-booked and as we have noway of knowing what the daily supply status is at the refuges, a basicemergency ration will be carried, in addition to lunch and breakfast items, inthe eventuality of a supply problem.

Food &Accommodation

We stay in three small (quaint!) family run hotels and in twoski resort pensions: the latter tend to be busy (6 nights total in beddedaccommodation). However, these are not fully en suite, but usually have a smallshower and/or basin in the rooms, en suite toilets are not available. Singlerooms are not generally available, and hence there is no single supplement forthis tour. Some times we may have to have more than two to each room inVizzavona, but this rarely happens. On trek we will be bivouacking near simplerefuges, (8 nights). All the bivouac sites are near to refuge sites, a few havebasic showers and intermittent supplies of drinks and snacks. 

Overnights in refuges are not included in the tour cost andare only used on rare occasions when bad weather precludes bivouacking, butthis will be at the expense of the client. Places however cannot be booked inadvance. Competition for refuge places can be heavy, so bear in mind that ifyou want a refuge place, this may notalways be possible. Refuges are quite basic but they do provide cookingfacilities, which we use when we can. We do carry cookers with us however.

An adventurous spirit is required! Our hotels are atCalenzana, Haute Asco, Col de Vergio, Vizzavona (2 nights) and in Zicavo.

Meals while bivouacking are not included in the tour cost butyou should budget up to 270 Euros/approx US$325 for 10 evening meals and forthe three lunches not included on the tour, with an additional allowance fordrinks and refreshments. Corsica is a reasonably expensive place, and snackprices along the GR20 are sufficiently hiked as one might expect!

Tea and coffee of course will be provided on trek but inrestaurants you will find that beer and carafes of wine represent much bettervalue, as does the bergerie wine, bought by the liter when available.

OtherConsiderations

To summarize, to really enjoy this tour, you need to be veryfit, able to carry a largish rucksack, one weighing between 10 - 20 kg,depending on personal gear. You should also be confident scrambling on rockwith the backpack and be able to walk for some long days. A degree ofself-reliance and sense of humor is necessary and it is not a tour for anyonewith knee problems or those who can’t cope with heat! (We even had snow on oneof the summer tours). Group membersshould not mind helping out with various chores around camp, such as washing up...Oh yes, and if you are frightened of thunderstorms or rather large feral pigs,you will not like this trip!

All in all this trip is an experience that will be rememberedfor the rest of your life. A fascinating voyage into the inner sanctums of agreat mountain range; experiencing the whole host of elements: sea, sky, rock,forest, spring, lake, thunder & lightning, well watered meadows anddizzying heights. A chance to meet people from different nationalities who willcontinue to turn up again and again during the tour and greet you as if you hadknown them for years; such is the power of this trip.

Escorted Departures 2008

Sun 22 June – Sun 6 July

Sun Sept 7 - Sun 21 Sept

Airport Pick Up/Dropoff times

Our GR20 walk is based on scheduled flights into and out ofAjaccio airport.

Books& Maps

Recommended is the Trailblazer guide to “Walking inCorsica.” www.trailblazer-guides.com. 

Also, Cicerone Press’s: “GR20: Corsica The High LevelRoute.” By Paddy Dillon www.cicerone.co.uk

A good introduction to walking in Corsica is the book -Walks in Corsica, part of the Footpaths of Europeseries (Robertson McCarta, 1990).

Also of interest: Carrington, D. Granite Island (Penguin), offers a portrait of this rugged islandshaped by its tumultuous past.

For general reference: TheRough Guide to Corsica, & TheLonely Planet Guide to Corsica also has good sections about the GR20.