dossier

Torfajokull - Iceland

OutlineItinerary

There follows two itineraries: Westbound and Eastbound. For2007, departures from UK on 20/05/07 Eastbound (via Landmannalaugar), and17/06/07 and 21/07/07 Eastbound via Strutslaug.

Departures on 30/06/07 and on 11/08/07 are Westbound (viaSveinstindur).

Clients will normally have their free day in Reykjavik at theend of the trip. This may possibly be changed around to the beginning in orderto accommodate prevailing conditions.

Please note that variations to these itineraries may occurdue to roads being impassable and sometimes through substitution of charteredfor scheduled transport. Other circumstances may cause minor changes. Also, note the first tour of theseason normally has a slightly different itinerary to that below, missing outStrutslaug.

Eastbound Itinerary

Day 1: Fly toKeflavik, transfer to your accommodation in Reykjavik.

Day 2: Assemble;catch 0830 bus to Hvolsvollur (108 km/65mi). If the weather is good you shouldsee the dormant volcano of Hekla, which is snow- capped and looks a bit likeMt. Fuji. Thence you will be taken by private transport to Fljotsdalur hostel(27km/16mi). Lunch: afternoon free to browse around. The ice caps ofMyrdalsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull are visible. Down the valley the land isflat out to the sea, 31km/19mi away. Look out for the horny Icelandic sheep!

Day 3: Walk toEinhyrningur Hut (15km/9mi), crossing River Gilsa en route, the first chancethat you have to get your feet wet. When you get to the hut you may considerscaling Einhyrningur hill. It is not as big as it looks and from the top, if itis clear, you may see Laufafell, which is as big as it looks!

Day 4: Walk pastthe Markarfljot Gorge and Lifrarfjoll to the small Krokur hut, crossing RiverHvitmaga. (14km/8mi). A positively austere setting with the sound of the riversfor company.

Day 5: Walk to thehut north of Laufafell (19km/11mi). You will walk over cols and down acrosslavafields to this very remote area, where you are surrounded on three sides byrivers, which change their dynamics between the days and the night.

Day 6: Free day atLaufafell: If conditions are good, you may be able to climb Laufafell itself,with tremendous views over the area.

Day 7: Walk (overhigh rhyolite lava flowers if conditions permit) to Hvanngil, crossing RiverMarkarfljot and several minor rivers. A strenuous day. (20km/12mi)

Day 8: Walk toStrutslaug, crossing several minor rivers. (16km/10mi). Camp

Days 9 & 10: Arebased at Strutslaug and involve day walks in the high rhyolite to Torfajokullor by Holmsarlon.

Day 11: Walk toAlftavatn, crossing River Sydri-Ofaera. (15 km/9mi)

Day 12: Is basedat Alftavatn, walking in Eldgja to Ofaerufoss and back. (20km/12mi) Eldgja isan example of a volcanic fissure which split open some centuries ago. When youget to Ofaerufoss you will find an amazing double level waterfall a bit like agiant High Force in the Pennines. There used to be a rock bridge over thefalls, but this collapsed in 1993.

Day 13:  Drive back to Reykjavik in a chartered bus,arriving 5 pm.

Day 14: Free inReykjavik.

Day 15: Transferto Keflavik airport, fly home.

Westbound Itinerary

Day 1: Fly toKeflavik, transfer to your accommodation in Reykjavik.

Day 2: Depart inchartered bus to road head under Sveinstindur. Overnight in small hut 1km/.6mibeyond road head. (238km/143mi road journey).

Day 3: Based bySveinstindur, to allow ascent of mountain for views over Langisjor, Laki andVatnajokull.

Day 4: Walk viaRotagil to Skaelingar hut. (15km/9mi)

Day 5: Walk overshoulder of Gjatindur: ascend Gjatindur for view down Eldgja valley, thence toOfaerufoss, and on to Alftavatn. (16km/10mi). Eldgja is an example of avolcanic fissure which split open some centuries ago. When you get toOfaerufoss you will find an amazing double level waterfall a bit like a giantHigh Force. There used to be a rock bridge over the falls, but this collapsedin 1993.

Day 6: Walk toStrutslaug, crossing River Sydri-Ofaera. (14km/8mi). Camp

Days 7 & 8: arebased at Strutslaug, walking in the high rhyolite to the edge of theTorfajokull ice cap or by Holmsarlon. Great Mountain walking.

Day 9: Walk toHvanngil, crossing several minor rivers. (15km/9mi).

Day 10: Walk toEinhyrningur hut, crossing River Blafjallakvisl and passing Markarfljot Gorge.This is the furthest inland that the sea birds penetrate to roost and can beinteresting at certain times of the year. At certain places the view from thegorge down to the river is spectacular and the view is for many miles and youcan hear it rumbling away to the sea. (19km/11mi).

Day 11: Walk toFljotsdalur Hostal, crossing River Gilsa. This is the last chance to get yourfeet wet, so make the most of it! (15km/9mi).

Day 12: Free daybased at Fljotsdalur. A beautiful location overlooking the valley of theMarkarfljot and the Myrdalsjokull Ice caps. You will see Icelandic sheep and itis a good spot for bird watching too. The hostel has an extensive library allabout Iceland. Looking down the valley you can imagine you can see the sea!This is the first time that you will have seen any trees for almost a couple ofweeks! Fljotsdalur is a traditional turf covered hostel and there is a flushtoilet inside.

Day 13: Depart byscheduled bus for Reykjavik (135km/81mi). Arrive 11am. 

Day 14: Free dayin Reykjavik. Take a walk about in Europe's most unusual capital city; a placeof corrugated iron-clad cottages and bungalows with triple glazing, highlyfashionable and highly expensive shopping streets, dockyards and botanicalgardens. Omnipotent is the 'feel' of the sea, whether it is the cry of theseagulls and Arctic Terns, or the smell of weed, fish and salt. The fine newchurch in the capital pierces the sky like a huge icicle. It is puritanicalwhite within and without. You could t hire a car and travel to some local hotsprings for a swim or to visit the sights. Or perhaps hire bikes and get blownaround town and into the countryside!

Day 15: Transferto Keflavik airport, fly home.

Grade

The most experienced hillwalker will find much to stimulateand challenge them on this trek.  Due tothe remoteness of the terrain no vehicle support is possible. Some equipmentwill therefore have to be divided amongst the group and carried in rucksacks.Treks in May, June and early July will encounter snow underfoot to varyingdegrees. Novices will not be accepted on May 20th departure, because of thehigher incidence of snow and more challenging weather at this time of year.This can be a physically demandingtour, so clients should be prepared beforedeparture to ensure they make the most of their Iceland experience. Make surethat you have gear that you are comfortable with!

This trek affords many opportunities to see and walk throughan amazing and varied landscape and the rewards soon outweigh the hardships(i.e. the basic huts and the thought of carrying your own baggage!) on thisfantastic trip.

Daily distances walked should not exceed 20km/12mi. However,clients should be able to cover twice this distance in emergency conditions.The bonus here is that at this time of year it is light nearly all the time.

Equipment& Clothing

If you regularly walk in the hills you should already havemuch of the equipment and clothing required. Iceland, despite its name is not aland of perpetual frost!

In July shorts can be worn. Warm and windproof clothingshould be brought: gaiters will be valuable. A three-season sleeping bag and afoam insulation mat will be needed. A detailed list of recommended clothing andpersonal equipment will be sent with confirmation of reservation. 

Food & Accommodation

All meals on trek are included in the cost. Accommodation onthe three nights in Reykjavik is hostel style, and you will need your sleepingbag; you have to pay for all meals individually in Reykjavik. This amounts toone full day and three evening meals. However Breakfasts are included wherepractical. They are not included if you are taking early morning flights.

Reykjavik is expensive: in contrast there are no opportunitiesto spend any money while on trek. To eat out in a proper restaurant inReykjavik costs, at a minimum, around $30. This is a minimum; you may well wantto spend more. It is cheaper than this if you just want to snack on a takeawaytype meal. There are burger bars and inns that serve local dishes such aspickled herring and vegetables for considerably less. Be warned that a round ofdrinks can leave your wallet choking!

Huts vary in quality from very, very basic, made of wood,iron, turf and stone, and some with dirt floors, through basic - a bit moreiron, concrete and stone and maybe a water pipe for good measure- to a coupleof rather good quality huts  (dependingon which itinerary you choose). Accommodation in Reykjavik is in a very nicedormitory-style pension with a kitchen area that you can use so maybe bringsome tea, packet soup or noodles for a warming snack while you are there. Itmay also be worth considering bringing a hip flask of your favorite tipple.Although strictly contrary to good mountain practice, it will be a welcome friendin the evening time. At the moment Strutslaug hut has not had permission for arebuild since an avalanche hit it and you will have to camp outside at thissite only.

Food is of a good standard and consists largely ofhigh-energy foods and dehydrated meals that soon spring to life when nurturedby Icelandic water (and a bit of stirring) over the Primus! 

There will not be a specific vegetarian departure this year.However, we are sympathetic to client's requirements and do our best to caterfor vegetarians if we are notified at the time of booking. As food ispre-stocked in the huts, we ask clients to let us know well in advance of theirneeds and to be flexible wherever possible concerning food. If on a strictdiet, vegetarians should bring some vegetarian food that does not need muchpreparation.

How the Trek is Organized

The trek penetrates deep into uninhabited country and usessimple huts and pre-dumped food stocks, augmented by food carried by groupmembers. Group members must be able and willing to take a full part in jobsnecessary on this kind of expedition: loads of up to 20kg (44lb), 15 kg (33lb)for women, will sometimes have to be carried. Team spirit is an essential partof a Torfajokull trek. Practicality and adaptability are the keys to comfort whilecrossing the Torfajokull region on foot.

Books & Maps

It is suggested that no books are brought on the trek. Weightis at a premium while backpacking. As background reading before departure thefollowing is a useful source of information on Iceland in general.

‘Classic Walks in Europe’, edited by WaltUnsworth, which is out of print at the moment, but you will probably find acopy in the library.

Thorsmork/Landmannalaugar 1:100,000 map $14 with theaddition of the 1:100,000 sheet 67 for tours starting at Sveinstindur $12.

A more detailed list of books/maps will be sent to you withinyour pre-departure information, which is sent with confirmation of booking.

Note: It ispossible to leave pre-packed clean clothes, etc, with the organizers at thebeginning of the trip, to be picked up at the end. This is usually moresuitable than leaving packages at Reykjavik accommodation.

Included