dossier

Heart of Sardinia Walk

Day 1: Arrive in Sardinia
We meet you at Cagliari airport and drive you to your first hotel (75mins).

Day 2: La Fiummendosa 10km/6mi/4hr
Gently climbing through chestnut woods we reach Serra Santa Maria and its abandoned church.  The Fiummendosa valley spreads out before us, as we descend past twisted cork trees, and wild poppies. Sheep and goats graze by the river, shaded by tamarisk trees and dotted with lilies and alive with the scent of wild mint and the humming of dragonflies. We eat our packed lunch (included in your holiday price) of grilled cheese, roasted lamb and fresh vegetables in a charming local agriturismo.

Day 3: Punta La Marmora 11km/7mi/4.5hr
A 30 min drive to the refuge then we set off past yew trees bright with red berries, and violet flowered willow herb to join a path, glimmering with burnished limestone rocks winding along by mountain springs and alder copses to Punta La Marmora where we ascend on a pathway of pink granite stones left over from the Ice Age. We’ll picnic at the summit with Sardinia mapped out below, then gradually descend through meadows, perhaps spotting wild horses and mouflons.

Day 4: Nuraghi of Fonni 5km/3mi/2hr
We drive to Fonni, a limestone plateau dotted with farms and follow an archaeological trail through fields bright with gentian and butcher’s broom to see the Domus de Janas, small cells carved out of imposing boulders. In the afternoon we visit Nuoro, the provincial capital, and its fascinating folk museum – curious carnival masks, wacky musical instruments and sumptuous sweetmeats are just some of the exhibits. Then to Cala Gonone, where we spend the next four nights.

Day 5: Tiscali 8km/5mi/4hr
We drive to Sopramonte (45mins) then begin our climb through myrtle and rockrose. Soon forest gives way to limestone, and we walk over brilliantly coloured rocks ranging from ochre to indigo to reach Tiscali. Rude limestone huts with juniper branches for roofs, sheltered under a huge dolina. No one knows why there was a settlement here. Some say it was a hide-out from the Romans. We picnic here then descend before returning to the hotel.

Day 6: Free Day
You could just relax by the beach, it’s just outside! But it’s a shame not to explore the limestone cliffs and marble pebbled coves of the Gulf of Orosei. There are regular trips from the harbour. On the way back stop off at Bue Marino, the fascinating underground canyon stretching for 15km, to discover some of its colourful limestone walls, stalactites and underground lakes.

Day 7: Cala Luna 10km/6mi/9.5hr
We begin on a cliff path lined with juniper and lentisk trees. The Gulf opens up before us with sweeping views back towards Cala Gonone and its pretty port. Then across a rocky promontory to Cala Luna, a cove of impossibly white sand shaded by limestone cliffs and lapped by the clearest azure sea. After picnicking on the beach, we discover the Codola di Luna, a verdant canyon bright with pink oleander. We return to the hotel by boat.

Day 8: Return home