dossier

Heart of Sardinia Walk

HEART OF SARDINIA WALK  |  WHERE YOU STAY

Hotel Sa Muvara ****
Aritzo, Days 1+2+3

The Hotel Sa Muvara is located just outside the bustling little village of Aritzo in Sardinia’s central mountainous region, Barbagia. The rooms are decorated in traditional Sardinian pastel colours and have all the modern comforts including minibar, air conditioning, satellite television and telephone.

Further details on the hotel website.

Saturday  Arrive in Sardinia

We meet you at Alghero airport and drive (2hrs 45 min) you to your hotel in near Aritzo where you’ll spend the next three nights.

Sunday  La Fiummendosa  10km/6mi/4hr

Gently climbing through chestnut woods we reach Serra Santa Maria and its abandoned church. The Fiummendosa valley spreads out before us, as we descend past twisted cork trees, and wild poppies. Sheep and goats graze by the river , shaded by tamarisk trees, dotted with lilies and alive with the scent of wild mint and the humming of dragonflies. We eat our packed lunch (included in your holiday price) of grilled cheese, roasted lamb and fresh vegetables in a charming local agriturismo.

Monday  Punta La Marmora 11km/7mi/4.5hr

A 45 min drive to the refuge then we set off past yew trees bright with red berries, and violet flowered willow herb to join a path, glimmering with burnished limestone rocks winding along by mountain springs and alder copses to Punta La Marmora where we ascend on a pathway of pink granite stones left over from the Ice Age. We’ll picnic at the summit with Sardinia mapped out below, then gradually descend through meadows, perhaps spotting wild horses and mouflons.

Tuesday  Aritzo and Nuraghi of Fonni  8km/5mi/3hr

Today starts with a gentle walk up to the limestone tower overlooking Aritzo and the surrounding villages - superb views out as far as the sea. Then we drive to Fonni to visit the Nuraghi Dronnero - bronze age dwellings dating back to 1500BC and found only in Sardinia. In the afternoon we visit Nuoro, the provincial capital, and its fascinating folk museum – curious carnival masks, wacky musical instruments and sumptuous sweetmeats are just some of the exhibits. Then to Cala Gonone, where we spend the next four nights.

Hotel Costa Dorada  ****
Cala Gonone, Days 4+5+6+7

The Hotel Costa Dorada is truly a family affair, run by two brothers and a sister! The hotel is right on the sea front (just a ten minute walk from the main beach) it is located at the far end of the small seaside resort of Cala Gonone, you can’t really beat this spot for tranquillity. The bedrooms, which are elegantly decorated in a Sardinian-Spanish style with pastel colored furnishings, are equipped with private bathroom, hairdryer, telephones with direct lines, minibar, satellite television, safe, and air-conditioning.

Wednesday  Tiscali  10km/6mi/6hr

We drive to Sopramonte (45mins) then begin our climb through myrtle and rockrose. Soon forest gives way to limestone, and we walk over brilliantly coloured rocks ranging from ochre to indigo to reach Tiscali. Rude limestone huts with juniper branches for roofs, sheltered under a huge dolina. No one knows why there was a settlement here. Some say it was a hide-out from the Romans. We picnic here then descend before returning to the hotel.

Thursday  Free Day

You could just relax by the beach, it’s just outside! But it’s a shame not to explore the limestone cliffs and marble pebbled coves of the Gulf of Orosei. There are regular trips from the harbour . On the way back stop off at Bue Marino, the fascinating underground canyon stretching for 15km/9mi, to discover some of its colourful limestone walls, stalactites and underground lakes.

Friday  Cala Luna  10km/6mi/4hr

From the Codola di Luna, a verdant canyon bright with pink oleander, the Gulf opens up before us with sweeping views back towards Cala Gonone and its pretty port. Then across a rocky promontory to Cala Luna, a cove of impossibly white sand shaded by limestone cliffs and lapped by the clearest azure sea. A leisurely picnin on the beach, before returning to the hotel by boat.

Saturday   Return home

WALKING DETAILS

The walks are mainly on stony paths and forest trails. Some ascents involve walking over loose granite stones and high stone steps, so walkers should be reasonably sure footed and have a head for heights.  Walking boots are essential.  There is some scrambling on the Tiscali Walk.

For extra nights we recommend Aritzo or Cala Gonone.