dossier
Highlights of La Rioja Cycling
Day 1: Arrive in Haro
Time to explore the Haro’s ancient streets, flamboyant C16 church and La Herradura - the horseshoe - of cafés, quirky tapas bars and bodegas that circle the attractive old quarter.
Day 2: Haro to Cenicero (37km/23mi)
Once you’re fitted out with your bike, you head off following the River Ebro southeast along quiet vineyard tracks to picturesque San Vicente de la Sonsierra with its hilltop castle and narrow streets. A closer run alongside the river in the afternoon offers patchwork valley views and inspections of traditional stone store houses in the vines, along with more castle views. Tackle a small plateau between Banos de Ebro and Cenicero, and cruise into town for a well deserved glass of chilled cava in the main square.
Day 3: At Cenicero
Quirkily named after the flocks of shepherds who used to congregate around huge bonfires here (Cenicero means “ashtray”!), this serious wine town, on the south bank of the river, boasts several excellent bodegas: most famous is probably the ‘Marques de Riscal’ - designed by the same architect who build Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum. If you fancy a short cycle, the hilltop fortress town of Laguardia is just 10km/6mi away and affords great commanding views of the surrounding region. It also has an olympic-sized swimming pool. Or you can hop on the local bus to Logroño - wonderful cathedral city and stopping-off point on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.
Day 4: Cenicero to San Millan de la Cgolla (33km/21mi )
Cross from one side of the valley to the other following tracks through market gardens and vines all the way to Najera – a small town with oxblood cliffs with hollowed out cave dwellings from times gone by. Passing pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostella, you climb gently out onto a low plateau of vines and cornfields - magnificent views in all directions. It’s then a gentle freewheel down and a level coast into San Millan de la Cogolla where the original Spanish language was born in the 1400’s. You spend the next 2 nights in the stunning Monasterio de Yuso, which dates from 1053.
Day 5: At San Millan de la Cogolla
Lots of choice today: tour the enormous Yuso monastery with its incredible 3-foot high leather-bound studded hymn books; lounge by the local pool (1km down the valley, Jul-Aug only), explore the intimate Monasterio or visit a local bodega. For those in search of gentle activity, the cool pine-clad hills above the town offer excellent walks and cycling options. Our rep will provide suggestions.
Day 6: San Millan de la Cogolla to Casalarreina (34km/23mi or 38km/26mi)
Following the pilgrim route out of San Millan de la Cogolla you enjoy sweeping views of the valley to the south before heading off through tiny hamlets and quiet country roads. First stop is Santo Domingo de la Calzada - take time to admire this superb cathedral, where due to a legendary pilgrim miracle, live roosters are kept high on the wall! Good place to try tapas for lunch. It's then an optional detour along the via verde or "green route" (flat former rail tracks) and an easy coast back across the valley floor to Casalarreina, a little framing hamlet centred around the Renais Scance Convent de la Piedad.
Day 7: At Casalarreina
Casalarreina is well placed for exploration and perhaps a castle bagging tour around the pretty surrounding villages of Anguciana, Baños de Rioja, Villalba de Rioja, and Cuzcurrita de Rio Tiron. If you fancy a greater challenge you might consider a trip to picturesque Ezcaray - a lovely mountain town with beautiful square, old church, quirky shops and excellent restaurants. Or, if you just want to laze by the pool, there’s a stunning complex, and beautiful gardens, just behind the hotel (mid June - mid Sept).
Day 8: Casalarreina to Haro (25km/17mi)
Leaving Casalarreina, aim for the limestone peaks of the Sierra de Cantabria, admiring the Roman bridge in Chiuri on the way. Stop short of the mountains in the tiny town of Sajazarra with its crumbling castle keep, and perhaps join the locals in a tapas lunch on the main square – the prawns, anchovies and olives are especially good here. You stay close to the mountains and take in Villaba de la Rioja, a tiny wine town, before the run home to Haro takes you across acres of vineyards with mountain scenery to the east, and long distance views across the valley to the west.
Day 9: Return home
Leave for home after breakfast.


