dossier
Classic Burgundy Cycling
Day 1: Arrive at Auxerre
One of France’s prettiest mediaeval cities, on the banks of the Yonne. Two Gothic churches: the Cathedral of St Etienne (13C and 16C with magnificent stained glass windows) and the Abbey of St Germain (13C and 14C with 19C crypt).
Day 2: Auxerre/Ligny-le-Châtel (29km/16mi)
Leaving Auxerre, it’s flat gentle cycling along the river Yonne and through the forest of St Germain to Seignelay (scene of the 8C defeat of the Saracens; castle remains; fine market hall; pretty views over the Serein). On through villages and hamlets, to Ligny-le-Chatel.
Day 3: At Ligny-le-Châtel
Originally this was the Roman Lanniacum Castrum and later Marguerite de Bourgogne lived here. Then it’s only 4km to visit the magnificent Abbey at Pontigny - it gave sanctuary to Thomas à Beckett and is reputedly the greatest Cistercian abbey in the country. A pleasant 10km ride takes you to world-famous Chablis or cycle north to pretty St Florentin, with its priory and beautiful church, returning by the towpath of the Canal de Bourgogne.
Day 4: Ligny/Poilly-sur-Serein (33km/19mi or 20km/12mi)
A choice of routes today. The gentler cycle goes along the Serein, with the chance to do some wine-tasting in a couple of villages en route. Or wait until you reach Chablis, almost entirely given over to the production of the world’s most celebrated white wine. (Don’t forget the Headwater Wine Service for any en-route purchases.) After a leisurely lunch, pedal peacefully on down the valley. The sportier route also has an abundance of dégustationopportunities, with wonderful spreading vistas, and our favourite picnic spot. Then through woods with a final splendid freewheel into Poilly-sur-Serein.
Day 5: At Poilly-sur-Serein
In this pretty little village on a Gallo-Roman site, you stay in a beautifully converted mill with its own vineyards and pleasant gardens. You might like to cycle to Tonnerre (14km), with the oldest hospital in France and the curious Fosse Dionne. From Tonnerre, go along the River Armançon to Tanlay, with its fine château.
Day 6: Poilly / Avallon (34km/19mi)
You continue following the Serein valley downstream past Ste Vertu before heading east to explore the picturesque fortified village of Noyers-sur-Serein. Here the narrow cobbled streets are overhung by half-timbered houses – and there are lots of restaurants. After lunch, a pretty cycle leads to Avallon.
Day 7: At Avallon
Formerly the Druidic college of Aballo, this ancient fortified town has survived numerous sackings. You have the whole day to explore the place: stroll round Vauban’s ramparts, visit the church of St. Lazare and the clock tower. Perhaps visit the Costume Museum and the Maison des Traditions Agricoles et Artisanalein the old abattoir!
Day 8: Avallon / St Père (18km/10mi or 30km/17mi)
It’s a short wooded uphill stretch before dropping down to Bazoches and its 12C château. Richard the Lionheart launched his 3rd crusade from here. Lots of rich furnishings and impressive armoury. Picnic en route - lovely shady riverside spots - or lunch at Pierre-Perthuis, then flat cycling all the way to St Père.
Day 9: At St-Père-sous-Vézelay
The original site of the famous abbey, this much plundered little village still, remarkably, supports a clog maker. Visit the beautiful Gothic church, the Gallo-Roman baths and the museum in the pretty 17C presbytery. Walk up the pilgrim path (1km) to visit Vézelay and its Basilica officially “the finest Roman building in France”.
Day 10: St Père / Auxerre (39km/23mi)
This is a longish day but it’s mostly gentle cycling, often along the valley of the Yonne. The route takes you past Vézelay and along the edge of the Parc du Morvan. Plenty of shade and a lovely lakeside picnic spot. After lunch, there’s a choice of routes leading towards Cravant (once a fortified villagewith a fine 13C church). You can catch the train from here back to Auxerre, or join the towpath along the Yonne for the final stretch.
Day 11: Leave Auxerre