Today is a warm up day - The Three Villages Walk – we’re expecting a 6 mile walk, but the elevation changes could make that seem a lot longer. The weather so far has been ideal, warm (say 75 F) in the daytime but cooling off quite a bit at night. We start out right from the hotel with a moderate uphill climb (I’m a bit worried, as I’m out of breath in 10 minutes) but then we quickly head down through olives and almonds to the village of Archez, famous for its beautiful decorated Madéjar church.
Stopping mid morning for a coffee, Andrew relates a surprisingly huge knowledge of the history of the region, dating back to the Phoenician, Roman and Moorish rules. It quickly becomes apparent that he is somewhat of a Renaissance man – working as a mountain guide part time and an artist the remainder of the year. His knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is only surpassed by his enthusiasm. My initial concerns about the difficulty of the walk evaporate, as he paces the group and stops frequently to point out herbs (wild thyme and rosemary) and fruit (avocado and pomegranate) and we taste our way through the countryside.
It’s then a climb on past terraced hillsides to the pretty white village of Còmpeta with the backdrop of the Sierra de Tejeda. We stop in the village square (dominated by the 16C church – stunning views to the Mediterranean) for a tapas lunch at picture postcard pretty outdoor café dotted with blue umbrellas. As long as they keep bringing the food, I’ll keep eating it! Love this way of leisurely snacking – a few bites at a time for an hour or so.
It does take a bit of dedication to keep going, although Andrew has promised a long, flat and steady mule track across to the village of Canillas de Albaida. We pass locals riding donkeys along with their produce on packs and old women dressed entirely in black (a tradition for widows). The mountain irrigation system is extensive (Roman origins) and we get a chance to fill our water bottles with sparkling, crystal clear water from the aqueduct.
Canillas is charming, with winding narrow, tiled downhill alleys past flower filled verandas and heavy wooden doors. As we reach the outskirts of the village we are serenaded by the lively dialog of an African grey parrot (check out the video, yes! it is a parrot).
On our final stretch (the Hotel Finca is so close, but SO far away) is completely downhill and then a strenuous zig zag straight uphill. We arrive around 5pm, ready for a hot shower and late afternoon rest before another fabulous dinner (at a local restaurant in Compèta). By now, we’ve bonded as a group, so the discussion is lively (US politics dominates – seems everyone worldwide is following the soap opera) and the wine is free flowing!
Day 1 I arrive early at the Malaga airport. Unfortunately, the cheap flight I booked required an early departure out of Barcelona. When the group arrives, it is easy to spot our fearless leader, Andrew. He would be the fit and gregarious fellow waiting in the airport café. We pile into our bus (mini) for the trip to Hotel Finca in Canillas de Albaida, a seemingly short 1 hour drive from Malaga. No one has prepared me (or anyone else it seems in the group) for the hairpin, edge of your seat, nosebleed ride ahead. Hopefully, we won’t see any buses that have careened off the precipice.
It is a beautiful ride through limestone white washed villages of red clay tile roofs, all set in the rugged Andalucia mountains. As we pull into our home for the week, Hotel Finca (Finca means casual, not serious, we’re earning a living doing this, farm). We’re greeted by Sue and Gordon, the English ex pat owners and Basil (dog extraordinaire) warmly and taken to our individually styled room in this fantastically restored 200-year old farmhouse (once used as an olive mill – the property includes a large grove of olive trees).
My room overlooks the pool and the entire valley down to the sea. A quick change and I’m out to explore the property. Later I find out that Gordon is the creative genius behind the creation of the total unique atmosphere of the inn. Lush gardens of plumbago, lemon trees and flowering terraces interspersed with little seating areas (the Moroccan influences are obvious – we’re only a few miles by ferry to the shore of Northern Africa). Lots of little rooms for relaxing including a fully stocked library (you can take home any book if you haven’t finished it) and, of course, pool side lounge.
Dinner tonight is our first group gathering – all at one long table in the lovely lounge, complete with open fire (it has cooled off quite a bit) and comfy sofas. We linger over tapas (blood pudding is well received) and a dinner of chicken roasted in local grapes and raisins. It’s been a long day, but we all chat up a little in front of the fire before retiring for the evening. Tomorrow will be our first walking day (a warm up around the local 3 villages), so we’re all anxious to get a good rest.
Day 3 – This is normally a “stay put” day, so there is the option to relax by the pool or take a short 2 mile walk into La Bisbal. Here is a picture of the hotel. It’s a bit rainy today, so I take a side trip (courtesy of Ashley, he is a gem) to Figueres to see the Dali Museum. This is a fascinating, not to be missed experience, even if the circular layout and mostly bizarre experience (he was a surrealist after all) left me a bit dizzy. The jewelry exhibit was my favorite (the ruby encrusted beating heart takes you by surprise).
Then off to take a look at the cycling hotels in L’Escale (right on the ocean, the pool looks like it is floating in the Med) and a truly charming farm house hotel in Baseia. We pull up to my nights accommodation in the heart of Berger around 4 pm. The town is small and quiet, with a nice selection of shops. I have a few conversations (well, okay, I point to my translator book and try to ask a few questions, quite successfully I might add) and sit in a little bar having a glass of wine. No body seems to notice me. I think I look very Spanish (did I mention that several people have asked ME for directions so far!)
Dinner is fantastic. A spoonful of lentil salad and very subtle fish broth, followed by warm goat cheese salad and fillet of cod with a wonderful mushroom cream sauce…a very light dessert of fresh apple flan. I’ve got to get up early tomorrow and make the 8 mi walk to Calella by 2 pm, rumor is this is the most spectacular walk of the week (walking from the Berger along the Med to Callela).
Day 2 - No need for an alarm. I wake right at 8 am to the sound of birds and gentle surf. Breakfast is quite a spread, cold cuts, cheese, yogurt, croissants and fresh honey and jam. The coffee is plentiful and perfect. This is a hotel you wish you could stay in for the entire week. The gardens are spectacular, somewhat tropical with palm trees mixed with pines. The pool looks picture postcard beautiful, just the place I could relax around for a few days. But, maybe better to save this to the end, as the tour circle backs to end here at the end of the week. Ashley gives us an overview of the days and weeks walks. He takes us by van to pick up some supplies (water – recommendation is about 1 – ½ liters per day as it can get warm this time of year, Oct). Then he drops us about 15 min north of town.
We’re heading inland now, through olive groves and past several little villages. Some so small, you’re not quite sure it WAS a village. All are so charming, I can’t stop taking pictures. Beautiful stone homes, some dating back to the 1700’s (stone stair ways are carved with the date), yet even the newer homes are built in the same style with clay roofs and iron work on the doors and windows. The walking is mostly easy today – on flat dirt roads and tracks. We make pretty slow time, as it is a warm up day. Don’t want to overdo it too much. In about 4 hours we arrive in Peratallada – a walled village (you even cross a moat to get there). Its name means “carved stone” and it is a maze of streets with Gothic stone houses, lots of flower pots overflowing with Bougainvillea and colorful flowers. It’s hard to get through; every corner is like a vignette of cobbled stone paths and archways. Around the main square (lots of antique shops and art galleries) we spot a couple of good choices for lunch – but we choose the pleasant outdoor seating terrace. I have the smoked salmon platter with baked goat cheese and toast. Just perfect. My companions have smoked ham on toast and a goat cheese salad with mustard vinaigrette. It doesn’t take too long to recover our energy and we take off. Only 4 kms left to go. We’ve seen so much today! Soaring eagles, magpies, olive groves with black olives ripening on the branches, not to mention pomegranate trees heavy with ripe fruit! And everywhere, there are gardens with red tomatoes and eggplant ready to harvest. The variety of plant life is amazing – lemon trees, acorn trees, pines and cork trees. They harvest the bottom part of the cork tree bark – so easy to spot. I’m told it takes 18 years for it to grow back (but at least it is a sustainable harvest!).
By around 4 we climb the last hill (really the only hill today) to finish the 14 km day at our castle hotel, the 4**** Castell d’Emporda just on the outskirts of La Bisbal. I thought the first nights stay was spectacular, but this is amazing! The building is a restored 700-year castle. The restoration is funky and modern with sophisticated touches of China, India and Morocco. My room has a very, very private balcony looking out over the entire valley. Dinner tonight at 8:15 pm (that’s the earliest you can eat in Spain! More like 10 pm for the locals). Can’t wait to try the gastronomic cuisine and sit by the pool for an after dinner drink.
Started the evening with a glass of wine overlooking the valley, the almost chilly breeze felt great after such a long hike today. The dining room is very unique, with 4 large black blown glass chandeliers and purple high backed formal seating. The fettuccine is fresh and la dente with baby clams and fresh red cherry tomato. Next course, confit of fish with baby vegetables. I couldn’t resist desert (I earned it), pear tart with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. I’ll sleep well tonight.
Day 1 – I arrive at Flaca train station (pronounced Flassa) around 5 pm after a long 24 hours of travel. Still, it’s refreshing to see Ashley, smiling and holding a “Headwater” sign. My worries about missing the pick up and getting off at the wrong station evaporate. And guess what! Two additional guests are on the same train – from Australia. They’ve just come from a stay in London, Germany and Prague, so have been on the road for several weeks already. Ashley takes us the short 25 minutes to Calella de Palfrugell by van and gives us an overview of the villages we’ll pass through later on the week’s walk. We arrive at the Hotel Garbi – lovely and set back on a private several acres of gardens. My room overlooks the Mediterranean! Wow! The view is spectacular over the village of Calella and the ocean. The clouds are rolling in though – so I’ll wait till morning for some pictures.
Time to walk into town and find a snack. I’m not really up for a big dinner, so after a brief stroll by the sandy beach (lots of colorful boats pulled up on shore) and up again through the winding streets of stone houses and shops - I settle on a small bar. A couple of locals are having a drink – so, why not? I order a pitcher of Sangria. The owner mixes it up fresh for me with lemons and oranges – sensational! He gives me the code for internet wi-fi access and I make a quick call home to check on the kids (I left the twins – aged 6, boys, home with Dad, he seems to be managing okay).
Finally, I make my way back to the hotel by street lamp – good thing I took the map with me! The roads wind by private gates, as this is somewhat of a high end summer place for wealthy Barcelonans. The city is packed from mid July to late August – thus the tour is not offered during this time frame (also, it would be too hot for walking). The room is so comfortable; I don’t even move a muscle until morning.
Food is a big part of many Breakaway Adventures trips from sidewalk cafes, to elegant sit-down meals to picnics overlooking beautiful views. But when sorting through all of our tours, many of which are centered around food and wine, which do you choose?
Those looking for the finest of the fine are a perfect fit for France. Our favorites include Brittany for seafood, the Lot and Dordogne for its rich, powerful menus -- foie gras, confit de canard and world-famous truffles -- and Provence where the air is heavy with the scent of wild herbs, garlic and lavender.
If home-cooked meals are a little more your style, consider Italy. Known for their straightforward menus relying on fresh, seasonal and local produce, Alto Mugello, Chianti, and Piedmont offer the most gastronomic options. You've also got some fantastic wines here, including full-bodied Barolo's, Barbaresco's and Dolcetto's.
If the meal is all about getting to know your fellow diners, try Spain, Greece, Turkey and North Africa, where mealtimes are very much a social occasion with many dishes served to share. You have tapas in Spain, mezze in Greece, and Turkey and fragrant tajines in Morroco with lots of choice for vegetarians too. And, wherever you visit in the Mediterranean, you'll come across wonderful outdoor markets selling sun-ripened fruits, colorful vegetables and pungent spices. We’re certain with all these choices you can find just the right fit for your palate – the hardest part is choosing which to try first!
Many people think about vacationing during the summer or spring, but the winter months in the U.S. are actually some of the best times to travel abroad. Many areas of the world are quite sunny and balmy right now and can make for a great escape from the snow, sleet and ice much of the country is experiencing.
We’ve got a host of walking and cycling tours to choose from this winter that travel to destinations in Bermuda, the French Caribbean, Gozo (Malta), Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Ecuador, Kenya, Costa Rica, Chile, Galapagos, St. Lucia, the Canary Islands, Madeira, Mallorca, Menorca and Cyprus.
Some of our favorite winter tours include:
Secrets of Andalucia, Spain – This is a guided trip that is very popular. You’ll feel more like house guests than paying customers! This walking trip in sunny Spain is at our 2 boot, moderate level, which means the longest walking day is 5-6 hours. It takes you through the traditional Andalucian countryside with a day-trip to Granada and an opportunity to walk around the famous Alhambra.
Highlights of Gozo Cycling, Malta – Never heard of Gozo? Join the rest of the U.S.! Part of Malta, Gozo is a hidden jewel in the Mediterranean popular with British vacationers. Ranked one of our easiest bike tours, you’ll cycle throughout this island known for its mild temperatures past beautifully secluded bays and stunning turquoise seas.
Walks in the Floating Gardens, Madeira/Portugal – This one-boot rated guided walking tour takes you along the famous levadas, past a wonderful array of exotic flowers, traditional fishing ports where fishermen lay their catch to dry in the sun, and the bustling harbor of Funchal with its colorful market.
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