Cycling on Gozo Blog
Day 4 -- Azure Window and Comino
Friday, November 17, 2006
This was my most favorite day so far, as we spent most of the day out on the crystal blue waters of Gozo. Because it is surrounded by the Mediterranean, you certainly have to see this island from the water.
We started out with a short bus trip from the hotel to the Azure Window, which is one of the natural attractions for which Gozo is best known. Many movies, including "The Count of Monte Cristo" and "Clash of the Titans" filmed scenes there. It is truly spectacular. First, we climbed just a bit up the rock for a great view, then we took a local skiff to see it by sea -- also amazing. And it was great to be inches away from the water, which here is a deep blue when the sun reflects off of it.
Azure Window
Cave Leading to the Azure Window
Then we headed over to do some "extreme sports" type things for those who were interested. I couldn't believe it, but I volunteered to go abseiling, which is something like rappeling down a cliff, but with lots of ropes tied to you. It was great and surprisingly, not that scary at all.
Next we boarded a boat to take us to the smallest island in the Maltese Archipelego -- Comino. -- to scuba dive and enjoy lunch aboard the board as it docked in the Blue Lagoon. It has something like 7 inhabitants and is almost completely natural. Many more movies have been filmed in Comino like "Swept Away" with Madonna, "Troy" with Brad Pitt, and "The Count of Monte Cristo."
This area is truly one of the most beautiful places I've seen in my entire life. Because the lagoon is more shallow, the light reflecting off the water makes it a beautiful shade of turquoise. You are surrounded by cliffs and rock on all sides and it is gorgeous.
Comino's Blue Lagoon
Castle on Comino Used in The Count of Monte Cristo
I'm afraid I chickened out scuba diving. I'd been before, but this time once I got in with the equipment and the mouthpiece I just didn't feel like I could breath or maneveur right and so I decided to snorkel instead, which worked out great. I swam over to a little pool area where Brad Pitt filmed a scene from "Troy" (I stood where Brad Pitt stood! :)) and then headed back to the boat. We dined on local cheese, bread and meats and it made for a lovely afternoon.
Lyn Mettler and Photographer Joe Litzinger preparing to Scuba Dive
Afterward, one of the guys on the boat, who is apparently the best rock climber on Gozo, demonstrated how he climbs on the rocks over in Camino. It was quite impressive!
I then headed back to the hotel, where I enjoyed an Ayurvedic massage (the Hotel Kempinski offers an entire Ayurveda program). We finished up the day with dinner at a restaurant, Ta Frenc, that was once a farmhouse and where Sean Connery had dined only weeks before. It was delicious and the owner grows all his own herbs.
We started out with a short bus trip from the hotel to the Azure Window, which is one of the natural attractions for which Gozo is best known. Many movies, including "The Count of Monte Cristo" and "Clash of the Titans" filmed scenes there. It is truly spectacular. First, we climbed just a bit up the rock for a great view, then we took a local skiff to see it by sea -- also amazing. And it was great to be inches away from the water, which here is a deep blue when the sun reflects off of it.
Azure Window
Cave Leading to the Azure Window
Then we headed over to do some "extreme sports" type things for those who were interested. I couldn't believe it, but I volunteered to go abseiling, which is something like rappeling down a cliff, but with lots of ropes tied to you. It was great and surprisingly, not that scary at all.
Next we boarded a boat to take us to the smallest island in the Maltese Archipelego -- Comino. -- to scuba dive and enjoy lunch aboard the board as it docked in the Blue Lagoon. It has something like 7 inhabitants and is almost completely natural. Many more movies have been filmed in Comino like "Swept Away" with Madonna, "Troy" with Brad Pitt, and "The Count of Monte Cristo."
This area is truly one of the most beautiful places I've seen in my entire life. Because the lagoon is more shallow, the light reflecting off the water makes it a beautiful shade of turquoise. You are surrounded by cliffs and rock on all sides and it is gorgeous.
Comino's Blue Lagoon
Castle on Comino Used in The Count of Monte Cristo
I'm afraid I chickened out scuba diving. I'd been before, but this time once I got in with the equipment and the mouthpiece I just didn't feel like I could breath or maneveur right and so I decided to snorkel instead, which worked out great. I swam over to a little pool area where Brad Pitt filmed a scene from "Troy" (I stood where Brad Pitt stood! :)) and then headed back to the boat. We dined on local cheese, bread and meats and it made for a lovely afternoon.
Lyn Mettler and Photographer Joe Litzinger preparing to Scuba Dive
Afterward, one of the guys on the boat, who is apparently the best rock climber on Gozo, demonstrated how he climbs on the rocks over in Camino. It was quite impressive!
I then headed back to the hotel, where I enjoyed an Ayurvedic massage (the Hotel Kempinski offers an entire Ayurveda program). We finished up the day with dinner at a restaurant, Ta Frenc, that was once a farmhouse and where Sean Connery had dined only weeks before. It was delicious and the owner grows all his own herbs.
Day 3 -- Xaghra to San Lawrenz
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
We had a challenging cycling day today with some steep uphills, but they were very rewarding with more beautiful scenery. The thing that is great about the independent cycling trips if indeed a hill challenges you a bit (I must admit I was out of breath!), you can stop for as long as you want and rest, perhaps having lunch overlooking the sea from items purchased at the local market or just sitting on a cliff taking in the view. Then, when you're energy's back up, head back to the bike for the rest of your trip. The Gozo Trip is particularly well suited to this, because the cycling distances are short, so you have plenty of time to get to your destination before dark.
Lyn at the Salt Pans (see below)
Today we cycled from the city of Xaghra to San Lawrenz and the Kempinski San Lawrenz Hotel & Spa. We passed the beautiful Marsalforn Bay, which is packed with people in the summer months, but nice and peaceful this time of year.
Marsalforn Bay
Then we passed the salt pans along the coast. Here locals have created square holes in the earth where they allow the sea salt to wash in during the winter and dry during the summer, leaving them with fresh sea salt in August. This part of the island was very different and lovely with orange cliffs and rocks dotting the coast.
Salt Pans
We then saw the island's only lighthouse (though it was a bit too far up to cycle) and visited the village of Ghammar which is home to the Ta' Pinu Basilica. Here two villagers heard the voice of the Virgin Mary in what was once a small chapel on the site. In Mary's honor, a larger, but less ornate than many churches in the area, basilica was built in her honor, incorporating the original chapel. Many miracles are said to have happened to people who visited and prayed there, and I must say, it does engender a peaceful feeling upon visiting.
Ta' Pinu Basilica
Afterward, just the down the road is the Crafter's Village, where you can see and purchase many of the area's best-known crafts, such as lace and glass. I purchased a few items as gifts and watched the process of creating the glass and a woman making lace.
Around the corner was our hotel, the 5-Star Kempinksi Hotel, which is absolutely stunning. It is more luxurious and hotel-like than the others where we have stayed, which is a nice change and gives a good variety over the trip. The other hotels were lovely all in their own right, but in a more local, unique way. Kempinski's rooms are large, with a separate sleeping and seating area. They offer a spa with all the regular treatments, plus a special Ayurveda center where you can receive a consultation and treatments, as well as yoga and Pilates classes. There are both indoor and outdoor pools and the pool area is just stunning. I can't believe there is such a luxurious hotel on this small island.
Kempinski San Lawrenz
A word about the people of Gozo -- they are so delightful. We have met many locals and children along the way (and, of course, petted our share of cats!) and all have been friendly and engaging. They are proud of their country, but happy to share it with you. And the entire trip, I have felt nothing but completely safe and at home. While it's different than the USA, it's completely civilized and comfortable and besides the scenery, I hardly feel like I'm in a foreign country!
Please also note I added some photos to the previous post (technical difficulties yesterday).
Lyn at the Salt Pans (see below)
Today we cycled from the city of Xaghra to San Lawrenz and the Kempinski San Lawrenz Hotel & Spa. We passed the beautiful Marsalforn Bay, which is packed with people in the summer months, but nice and peaceful this time of year.
Marsalforn Bay
Then we passed the salt pans along the coast. Here locals have created square holes in the earth where they allow the sea salt to wash in during the winter and dry during the summer, leaving them with fresh sea salt in August. This part of the island was very different and lovely with orange cliffs and rocks dotting the coast.
Salt Pans
We then saw the island's only lighthouse (though it was a bit too far up to cycle) and visited the village of Ghammar which is home to the Ta' Pinu Basilica. Here two villagers heard the voice of the Virgin Mary in what was once a small chapel on the site. In Mary's honor, a larger, but less ornate than many churches in the area, basilica was built in her honor, incorporating the original chapel. Many miracles are said to have happened to people who visited and prayed there, and I must say, it does engender a peaceful feeling upon visiting.
Ta' Pinu Basilica
Afterward, just the down the road is the Crafter's Village, where you can see and purchase many of the area's best-known crafts, such as lace and glass. I purchased a few items as gifts and watched the process of creating the glass and a woman making lace.
Around the corner was our hotel, the 5-Star Kempinksi Hotel, which is absolutely stunning. It is more luxurious and hotel-like than the others where we have stayed, which is a nice change and gives a good variety over the trip. The other hotels were lovely all in their own right, but in a more local, unique way. Kempinski's rooms are large, with a separate sleeping and seating area. They offer a spa with all the regular treatments, plus a special Ayurveda center where you can receive a consultation and treatments, as well as yoga and Pilates classes. There are both indoor and outdoor pools and the pool area is just stunning. I can't believe there is such a luxurious hotel on this small island.
Kempinski San Lawrenz
A word about the people of Gozo -- they are so delightful. We have met many locals and children along the way (and, of course, petted our share of cats!) and all have been friendly and engaging. They are proud of their country, but happy to share it with you. And the entire trip, I have felt nothing but completely safe and at home. While it's different than the USA, it's completely civilized and comfortable and besides the scenery, I hardly feel like I'm in a foreign country!
Please also note I added some photos to the previous post (technical difficulties yesterday).
1 Comments:
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Pamela said...
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Hi Lyn!!
I am truly enjoying your trip!!! What a grand adventure this must be. I lived in Malta as a child. With the blog and your images I am revisiting some truly fond memories!! I do remember the dogs and cats...I recall participating many times with the daily feedings. Hope you will indulge with a massage while visiting the Kempinksi!! I imagine the legs would love it after those hills!
Take good care.....
Cheers!
Pamela
Day 2 -- Tour of Malta
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
Day 2 was our "off" day of the cycling tour, meaning we did not cycle, but instead could choose to do whatever local activities we like. We chose to take a sightseeing tour of Malta, which is just 20 minutes by ferry next to Gozo.
We were quite impressed and surprised at the size and beauty of Malta. Inhabited by the Knights of St. John during the 1500s, they built many fortifications around the island which make it a lovely sight. There are so many different bays filled with these beautiful fishing boats:
We started off the day by visiting the heart of Malta, the city called Vincetta, which was fantastic. Amazing architecture and lots and lots of restaurants, shops, churches and other historic places of interest.
Valleta
Next we stopped by the absolutely stunning blue grotto rock formation with cliffs framing the blue sea.
Blue Grotto
Afterward, we headed over to visit some similar temples to the ones on Gozo. They were also built around 3600 B.C. but were quite a bit more elaborate than the Gozo ones. I noticed several dogs there who were friendly with the employees and asked our guide about them. He said that the country of Malta (which includes Gozo) are loves animals and thus you see dogs and cats everywhere. And even if they are strays, they are well cared for by the locals. There are even "cat villages" with small structures for the cats for shelter and everyday the locals come out and feed them and the cats come running!
Hagar Qim Temples
Cats in Gozo
The highlight of the day was the Walled City of Mdina. The outer walls were built about 2000 B.C. with the interior built at different times over history including the Greek and Roman periods. People still live there today. Everything in this country is built from local limestone and it was really beautiful to gaze on the buildings amongst the narrow streets inside the walled city.
Mdina
We then made a last stop at the "life" of Malta, St. Julians. There are lots of discos here and plenty of happening restaurants at which to dine. We enjoyed dinner and then headed back on the ferry to Gozo and our hotel. The Hotel Cornucopia, where we stayed last night and tonight, is very nice with great views over Gozo. The rooms are cozy and quaint and there's even six resident cats who snooze quietly outside your door.
We were quite impressed and surprised at the size and beauty of Malta. Inhabited by the Knights of St. John during the 1500s, they built many fortifications around the island which make it a lovely sight. There are so many different bays filled with these beautiful fishing boats:
We started off the day by visiting the heart of Malta, the city called Vincetta, which was fantastic. Amazing architecture and lots and lots of restaurants, shops, churches and other historic places of interest.
Valleta
Next we stopped by the absolutely stunning blue grotto rock formation with cliffs framing the blue sea.
Blue Grotto
Afterward, we headed over to visit some similar temples to the ones on Gozo. They were also built around 3600 B.C. but were quite a bit more elaborate than the Gozo ones. I noticed several dogs there who were friendly with the employees and asked our guide about them. He said that the country of Malta (which includes Gozo) are loves animals and thus you see dogs and cats everywhere. And even if they are strays, they are well cared for by the locals. There are even "cat villages" with small structures for the cats for shelter and everyday the locals come out and feed them and the cats come running!
Hagar Qim Temples
Cats in Gozo
The highlight of the day was the Walled City of Mdina. The outer walls were built about 2000 B.C. with the interior built at different times over history including the Greek and Roman periods. People still live there today. Everything in this country is built from local limestone and it was really beautiful to gaze on the buildings amongst the narrow streets inside the walled city.
Mdina
We then made a last stop at the "life" of Malta, St. Julians. There are lots of discos here and plenty of happening restaurants at which to dine. We enjoyed dinner and then headed back on the ferry to Gozo and our hotel. The Hotel Cornucopia, where we stayed last night and tonight, is very nice with great views over Gozo. The rooms are cozy and quaint and there's even six resident cats who snooze quietly outside your door.
2 Comments:
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Harry said...
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Sounds like your having a great time. Would love to see all the all ruins, etc. How many miles did you cycle on the first day?
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Lyn Mettler said...
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The first day was 13.4 kilometers, the second day 15 kilometers. The length has been fairly easy (and amazingly no sore muscles), but the hills have been challenging.
Day 1 - Hotel Ta Cenc to Xaghra
Monday, November 13, 2006
Today was great! It was our first day cycling and my first taste of the cycling tour experience. I swear within the first three minutes I was totally sold on the concept. How wonderful it is to be outdoors and seeing firsthand the sites of a new country. Very cool.
First, here is a photo of the pool at the Hotel Ta Cenc:
At any rate, we accomplished a lot today. Over and over, we'd turn to each other and see something in the distance that we had cycled by seemingly minutes earlier and go "Did we cycle that far already?"
I'll hit the highlights. We did our briefing with the Breakaway Adventures rep. who gave us a rundown of the week's trip and answered all our questions. He also fit us to our bikes and gave a demonstration on how to repair a flat tire (as easy as it seemed, if we were to have problems, we could call him to rescue us). We headed out from the Hotel Ta Cenc and made our way to Xewkija Church, which is the second highest church in Europe after St. Peter's in Rome. Unfortunately, it was closed due to siesta time (yes, everyone here siestas from noon to 4) but it was certainly impressive from the outdoors.
Next, we cycled past some beautiful countryside on our way to Calypso's Cave and Ramla Bay. Calypso's Cave, which I mentioned in an earlier post is where it is believed the nymph Calypso held Ulysses from Homer's Odyssey. It was a bit of a tight squeeze to get into it and it was fairly small once there' but it opens to a fantastic view of Ramla Bay. Here is a photo of me inside the cave:
Ramla Bay is a gorgeous little bay with red sand beaches nestled in a Gozo valley. The water is clear and blue (a bit cold this time of year) and nearby are Roman ruins that were unearthed about 100 years ago.
On the path down to the bay (a bit steep and tricky, but made us all feel we were on a true adventure), we discovered an abandoned villa that was just as amazing in its own right. Its views of the bay were unbelievable and we couldn't fathom someone would leave it to ruin. We enjoyed exploring the inside and imagining what it must have been like in its heyday.
After a steep climb back uphill, we then headed to the small village of Cornucopia, where we found a small café (hooray! We were starving) where we discovered Pistizza, a hot, croissant-like pastry filled with cheese. It was delicious!
Just down the road were the Ggantija temples, the oldest standing stone structures in the world that predate the first Egyptian pyramids by something like 1000 years. These were built around 3600 B.C. apparently for religious purposes and were quite elaborate. There were places for doors, pulley systems to lift the HUGE rocks, a sacrificial area and more. It was amazing to stand in front of something that ancient.
Ggantija Temples
At this point, we encountered a short downpour, but our hotel (the Hotel Corucopia) was just down the road, so the little bit of rain didn't bother us, as we knew a hot shower was waiting!
We will stay at the Hotel Cornucopia tonight and tomorrow, so more about this quaint little hotel tomorrow. Off to soak my legs, which are a bit achy from our first day of riding ...
First, here is a photo of the pool at the Hotel Ta Cenc:
At any rate, we accomplished a lot today. Over and over, we'd turn to each other and see something in the distance that we had cycled by seemingly minutes earlier and go "Did we cycle that far already?"
I'll hit the highlights. We did our briefing with the Breakaway Adventures rep. who gave us a rundown of the week's trip and answered all our questions. He also fit us to our bikes and gave a demonstration on how to repair a flat tire (as easy as it seemed, if we were to have problems, we could call him to rescue us). We headed out from the Hotel Ta Cenc and made our way to Xewkija Church, which is the second highest church in Europe after St. Peter's in Rome. Unfortunately, it was closed due to siesta time (yes, everyone here siestas from noon to 4) but it was certainly impressive from the outdoors.
Next, we cycled past some beautiful countryside on our way to Calypso's Cave and Ramla Bay. Calypso's Cave, which I mentioned in an earlier post is where it is believed the nymph Calypso held Ulysses from Homer's Odyssey. It was a bit of a tight squeeze to get into it and it was fairly small once there' but it opens to a fantastic view of Ramla Bay. Here is a photo of me inside the cave:
Ramla Bay is a gorgeous little bay with red sand beaches nestled in a Gozo valley. The water is clear and blue (a bit cold this time of year) and nearby are Roman ruins that were unearthed about 100 years ago.
On the path down to the bay (a bit steep and tricky, but made us all feel we were on a true adventure), we discovered an abandoned villa that was just as amazing in its own right. Its views of the bay were unbelievable and we couldn't fathom someone would leave it to ruin. We enjoyed exploring the inside and imagining what it must have been like in its heyday.
After a steep climb back uphill, we then headed to the small village of Cornucopia, where we found a small café (hooray! We were starving) where we discovered Pistizza, a hot, croissant-like pastry filled with cheese. It was delicious!
Just down the road were the Ggantija temples, the oldest standing stone structures in the world that predate the first Egyptian pyramids by something like 1000 years. These were built around 3600 B.C. apparently for religious purposes and were quite elaborate. There were places for doors, pulley systems to lift the HUGE rocks, a sacrificial area and more. It was amazing to stand in front of something that ancient.
Ggantija Temples
At this point, we encountered a short downpour, but our hotel (the Hotel Corucopia) was just down the road, so the little bit of rain didn't bother us, as we knew a hot shower was waiting!
We will stay at the Hotel Cornucopia tonight and tomorrow, so more about this quaint little hotel tomorrow. Off to soak my legs, which are a bit achy from our first day of riding ...
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Arrival
Sunday, November 12, 2006
We arrived at Gozo today after a long journey to get here, but one that I'm sure is worth it many times over. I flew from Charleston to DC to London and then on to Malta. We had a scenic drive through Malta after we arrived and then headed over to the ferry (much larger than I expected, full of cars and complete with a cafe, coffee shop and magazine stand) that took us to Gozo.
We arrived at the hotel Ta Cenc (pronounced "cinch"), though it was dark when we got to Gozo so couldn't see much about the island. The hotel is just beautiful with an indoor and outdoor pool and gorgeous views out to the ocean. It's very quaint, yet has nice-sized rooms. We had a delicious meal in the dining room with Gozo-made cheese and wine. Entrees ranged from salmon and duck to pork. Everyone raved about their meals!
Well after not much sleep on the airplane, I am headed to bed to try to get on Gozo time, six hours ahead of EST. Tomorrow we will meet with the local representative who will go through the notes of the routes we will take, show us how to repair a busted tire and more. He will be the one we will call if we have any problems along the way.
Afterward, we will head off on our first cycling trip of the island followed by lunch and seeing the sites.
Good night!
We arrived at the hotel Ta Cenc (pronounced "cinch"), though it was dark when we got to Gozo so couldn't see much about the island. The hotel is just beautiful with an indoor and outdoor pool and gorgeous views out to the ocean. It's very quaint, yet has nice-sized rooms. We had a delicious meal in the dining room with Gozo-made cheese and wine. Entrees ranged from salmon and duck to pork. Everyone raved about their meals!
Well after not much sleep on the airplane, I am headed to bed to try to get on Gozo time, six hours ahead of EST. Tomorrow we will meet with the local representative who will go through the notes of the routes we will take, show us how to repair a busted tire and more. He will be the one we will call if we have any problems along the way.
Afterward, we will head off on our first cycling trip of the island followed by lunch and seeing the sites.
Good night!
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